Once the grungier, more rebellious sibling on the high street, AllSaints has always sat slightly apart from the pack – the one in leather while everyone else was in florals. On Thursday night, the brand returned to London Fashion Week in suitably dramatic fashion: at the Tate Modern, influencers packed the room and a full orchestra was waiting. 

Here’s a breakdown of what went down.

IT TOOK PLACE AT THE TATE

Hidden away downstairs in the Tate Modern, AllSaints claimed one of the industrial tank rooms normally reserved for performance art. Exposed concrete walls, shadowy corners, and a stripped-back aesthetic gave the collection a perfect stage.

THERE WAS A FULL ORCHESTRA… AND A DJ

The Philharmonia Orchestra turned up in leather jackets, led by a conductor just as sharply styled, and shared the stage with a DJ setup. They opened with sweeping orchestral arrangements before DJ Louis Bekk joined them, blending strings with beats. The back-and-forth between classical and club created a mashup you’d never expect from an orchestra.

THE COLLECTION GAVE GOTHS ABROAD 

The collection, titled AllSaints Rocks, tapped into what could be described as summer goth abroad. Think The White Lotus but with a darker twist. Linen two-pieces that caught the breeze, monochrome kaftans made for poolside lounging, and babydoll dresses worn with cowboy boots. Lace threaded its way into both menswear and womenswear, offering fragility against harder silhouettes. While the palette skewed mostly monochrome, splashes of colour and bold prints crept in through statement accessories. Things closed with a series of sweeping long dresses, pieces that felt as easy to dress up as they did to wear barefoot on holiday nights.

AND FINISHED OFF WITH SOME SIGNATURE ACCESSORIES

Finishing touches kept the attitude sharp. Belts bore the slogans “No Saint” and “No Sinner”, grounding looks in AllSaints’ signature irreverence, while studded sandals and flip flops toughened up beachwear.

Head to the gallery above to see looks from the collection.