Fashion East first found its feet in Shoreditch at the turn of the millennium, rising out of a dingy warehouse off Brick Lane to become an unstoppable force in the world of fashion. In the ensuing decade and a half, the talent incubator has propelled countless designers to global recognition, from Jonathan Anderson, Kim Jones, Maximilian Davis and Martine Rose to Grace Wales Bonner, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, A Sai Ta and Supriya Lele – the list is endless.

Each season, Lulu Kennedy and partner-in-crime Raphaelle Moore, who together run the initiative, select a small contingent of young designers and spend a few months nurturing them, before catapulting them onto the London Fashion Week runway. It’s always one of the highlights of the schedule, often feeling more like a raucous party than a regular fashion show. Lethal cocktails are served while people cram onto benches and cheer and holler for their friends presenting collections or walking in the show. Kennedy has “Chaos” tattooed on one arm, “Magic” on the other, and there are few words that could better sum up the operation.

On its 25th birthday, Fashion East has a lot to celebrate, with a list of alumni that reads like a who’s-who of the industry. To celebrate this milestone, we brought the community together to toast its success and look ahead to its future, with appearances from Fashion East designers past and present, their muses, collaborators, friends and family, as well as two fresh talents set to make their LFW debuts this September: Essex-based Louis Mayhew, a painter and decorator doing fashion on the side, and Barcelona-born Jacek Gleba Puig, who is fresh out of CSM’s legendary MA fashion course.

LULU KENNEDY

“The people are what make Fashion East magic. Getting to work with so many incredible designers is so much fun. I love how many people come into our orbit or gatecrash their way in, in the best possible way. It’s so exciting, all of us together, birthing new ideas all the time. We learn so much from them! It’s always about figuring things out together. We have never had a boring boss, so we’ve always just gotten up to whatever we want.”

HRH

“Fashion East is the coolest community ever. We obviously exist in a capitalist system, but Lulu and Raph make so much space for creativity and pushing yourself as much as you can – all while having loads of fun. It’s special.”

HARRY FREEGARD

“Fashion East is the people, it’s the vibes, it’s the London energy, it’s the spirit. It’s young, it’s cool, it’s here. Just have a drink, shut up, put the clothes on, walk down that runway and enjoy it. Mince, mingle, mooch, mwah!”

ALVA CLAIRE

“My favourite Fashion East show to walk was Karoline Vitto’s debut [S/S23]. It was a lot of the models’ first runway, and it was so special. A big moment!”

JAWARA ALLEYNE

“What makes Fashion East so magic? It’s pure chaos. Lulu and Raph are true disruptors of British Fashion.”

A SAI TA

“My favourite Fashion East memory was the party at Bistrotheque. There was a Britney Spears impersonator we were all convinced was totally real, and Raph was on crutches, which she kept using to create a limbo bar, which everyone danced under. Lulu and Raph give so much of their hearts. They really see you as a designer and as a person.”

RAPHAELLE MOORE

“We’re so lucky we get to have so much fun with all these amazing people so much of the time. We can’t believe it’s been 25 years of having a good time surrounded by so much talent.”

OLYMPIA SCHIELE

“I love how much fun Lulu and Raph have doing what they do. They’re total troopers – hard-working, joyful and full of energy. I think they appreciate that I bring my whole self to what I do and that I truly care about the details, as well as the bigger picture. And the post-show celebrations are always so chaotic and fun – I love watching the girls confidently free-pour punch like seasoned pros!”

OLLY SHINDER

“My favourite Fashion East moment was backstage during my AW24 show. Raph was holding my hand while I was shaking with nerves, and I remember spotting Lulu sitting at the corner of the runway as I took my bow. They gave me so much freedom and space to develop my vision, and even though my four seasons are over I feel their support is stronger than ever.”

SIMONE ROCHA

“It was so amazing to come out of college and be welcomed into London Fashion Week with Raphaelle and Lulu. Fashion East is so magical because of the platform it gives and how it embraces you – it’s so important to bring people together, to support each other, collaborate and have fun (of course!).”

CAMERON WILLIAMS

“Fashion East is a mirror of what’s really happening in London. It reminds everyone that creativity here still has rawness and purpose. People always look at it to see what’s next, to see that London is still breathing.”

ASHLEY WILLIAMS

“This shoot reminded me that I am part of an amazing community and that I’m grouped with so many lovely, interesting, talented people that Lulu and Raph have brought together. They lead with so much love, which is so special and rare.”

25 years of Fashion East is at the ICA in London September 20-21

Hair Kiyoko Odo at Bryant Artists using Syoss, make-up Siobhan Furlong at LGA Management using Sisley Paris, nails Liia Zotova using Pleasing, set design Samuel Overs at New School Represents, talent Ajak Dhieu at Established Models, Alana Newton, Alva Claire at IMG Models, A Sai Ta, Ashley Williams, Cameron Williams, Claire Barrow, Claire Burman, Emanuel Dawit, Gray Wielebinski, Harry Freegard, HRH, Jacek Gleba Puig, Jawara Alleyne, Kerlual Thak and Noah Bates at Menace Models, Louis Mayhew, Lulu Kennedy, Miles Buckle at PRM, Aimee Byrne at Premier, Olly Shinder, Alfa Hatoy and Rainbow Kennedy, Raphaelle Moore, Roksanda Ilinčić, Simone Rocha, Xiaoqiao Wang, movement direction Yagamoto at New School Represents, photographic assistants Simon Wellington, Guy Isherwood, Dylan Massara, Jay Izzard, styling assistants Honor Dangerfield, Olivia Easton, Pheobe Icke, Hayley Downes, Precious Greham, Laura Pickthorn, hair assistants Masaki Ueda, Myuji Sato, Ana Torres Asprilla, Peter Cheng, make-up assistants Alice Swindells, Martha Inoue, Anni Brønning Rademacher, Ivory Bella, nails assistants Hannah Bent, Nicole Gutierrez-Lock, set design assistant Henry Hawksworth, production Maya Lessof at CEBE Studios, production assistants Chloe Slattery, Harvey Watt, Harrison Worlock, Noemi Barno, post-production Artpost London, casting Mischa Notcutt at 11casting, special thanks Institute of Contemporary Arts London