Copenhagen Fashion Week feels like it gets bigger every year, and this season was a bit of a bonanza – there was so much happening across the Danish capital it was hard to find time to get to see it all. In recent years, the city’s designers have shrugged off the clean-cut Scandi style it was once known for, with a wave of rising talent proving CPHFW can go toe-to-toe with the avant-garde theatrics of any of the big four fashion capitals. So, what went down at the SS26 shows? From moody runway comebacks to rat bags taking over the streets, here’s everything you need to know.

THE RAT BAG REIGNED SUPREME

My first look at the accessory of the season was when a girl sat next to me at Anne Sofie Madsen’s comeback show. Perched on her lap was an orange metallic rat-shaped clutch, with a zipper spanning the length of its back like a spine. Soon it was obvious why. Madsen’s runway was full of different iterations of the rodent, in shiny, bright sweetie wrapper finishes (one model even swung hers around by the tail insouciantly as she stopped to pose).

Madsen has been on hiatus for eight years, and it was great to see her back – rat bags aside, the label debuted a strong collection full of offbeat tailoring and party dresses that felt slightly scuzzy around the edges. The inspiration behind the offering was worn on its sleeve, with the middle of the catwalk piled up with various paraphernalia, ranging from Cramps and ET t-shirts to books by the likes of Kenneth Anger. The designers explained backstage that they wanted to create a collection that could take you from day to night, although in a more cool way than that old cliché can sometimes sound.

IAMISIGO

IAMISIGO switched Lagos for Copenhagen this season, as it made its debut for SS26. Designer Bubu Ogisi has been making waves for a while now with her clean tailoring and deft use of colour, kitting out the likes of Julia Fox and Naomi Campbell in her pieces. This time around, her offering blew most of the audience away – structured coats were overlaid with woven chainmail-style pieces, enormous tall hats perched on models’ heads and the woven accessories, like big leather holdalls, spoke of her clearly wild talent. Read our full interview with Ogisi here. 

A PROTEST FOR PALESTINE 

More than in any other fashion city, the streets were filled with tributes to Palestine and Gaza. From slogans emblazoned on T-shirts to keffiyeh-style scarves draped over hips and shoulders, support for those living through the genocide was unmistakable. One model took things one step further, however. At Marimekko, musician Jura used her appearance to whip out a Palestinian flag, drawing attention to the massacre that is happening there – she was quickly pulled from the runway, but not before most of the audience had seen what she had to say. Head here to read more on Palestine, including ways you can help the people there. 

STEL WAS A HIGHLIGHT 

Astrid Anderson first tore up the runways of London as part of Fashion East in the mid-00s, before she disappeared for the best part of a decade (working in fashion will sometimes do that to you!). Last year, she returned at the helm of STEL, debuting a grown-up evolution of her signature ‘streetwear’ – think tunics layered over flowing tailored shirts, crisp, wide-legged trousers, hefty bombers, and knitted tabards. This season, she followed up on that with a collection of separates designed to fit seamlessly into your existing wardrobe, finished off with a bunch of cute but fierce berets I could definitely get behind. It’s good to have her back. 

PLN MADE A RUNWAY RETURN

After wowing audiences a couple of years ago as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s New Talent incubator, PLN took two years off to assess where to go from there. This season, the label was back to debut a dark and moody collection that sat somewhere between Hedi Slimane’s golden era and Rick Owens’ dishevelment. The skinny jean was well and truly back on the runway, with waistlines sinking to obscene hip-baring levels and nipped tailored jackets shrunk to match, while satin evening dresses looked like they’d been picked up off the floor and chucked on the morning after the night before. 

CECILIE BAHNSEN TURNS TEN 

In recent seasons, Cecilie Bahnsen said goodbye to Copenhagen, switching her home city for the bright lights of Paris. But SS26 was special, in that the brand was celebrating hitting double figures after ten years in the game. The designer’s big birthday collection riffed on the CB archives, as she turned out flouncy dresses covered in petals and cute, feminine outerwear – she even managed to enlist Björk’s daughter Ísadóra Bjarkardóttir Barney to open the show. 

OPÉRASPORT WENT AQUATIC 

With Ganni now switching Copenhagen for Paris, Opérasport has become one of the jewels in the CPHFW crown, and this season it went hard. The designer duo behind the label took over a huge aquatics centre, debuting a chic offering of its slinky strappy dresses, fine-gauge knitwear, capri pants, and silky boxy shirts, demonstrating why it’s become a cult go-to for fashion fans in the know.

INTO THE WOODS WITH ROLF EKROTH 

Rising talent Rolf Ekroth probably won the prize for most cinematic show this season, luring editors into the woods just outside the city centre. As the sun was sinking behind the trees, the runway was bathed in golden light, making the clearing the perfect place for his wild things – in textured, clashing outerwear and cute little spiked dino hats – to come out to play.

DAZED LANDS IN THE CITY 

Dazed Club touched down in Copenhagen for a series of talks, with creative director Jack Sunnucks at the helm. CPH-born casting director Emma Matell joined other creatives to share how they broke into the fashion industry and the paths their careers have taken. How Matell even found a minute to talk was a mystery – the London-based creative cast nearly every major show (and plenty of the rising talents’) across the week.

AND WE HOSTED A FUN PARTY TOO

Dazed linked up with Ray Ban for an intimate dinner that brought together global Dazed fam and friends at cult Italian spot Bar Amore. As guests dug into platters piled high with pasta, a playlist of songs submitted by attendees soundtracked the night, the party spilling into nearby bars once Amore closed its doors.