While everyone else jets off on their summer holidays and the French and Italians flee the cities for the coast, the fashion crowd flocks to Milan and Paris. The week before last, the men’s SS26 shows kicked off in the Italian capital, where Mrs Prada and Raf Simons said ‘good vibes only’ and Harris Dickinson, Theo James and Win Metawin O lined the front row (see our interviews with all three here). 

Then things amped up in Paris, especially when close friends of Pharrell, Beyoncé and Jay-Z showed up at the Louis Vuitton SS26 show. Rihanna popped in to Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut, and Anna Wintour made the shock announcement that she would be stepping down from her position as editor-in-chief of American Vogue. Between all of that, Rick Owens started selling his feet pics on OnlyFans, too. If all the hullabaloo of this season distracted you from a few of the shows, here’s everything you missed from the runway.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Andreas Kronthaler took over Milan’s San Babila café (and the street outside it, too) for his Vivienne Westwood SS26 Men’s show. The show marked the brand’s grand return to Milan fashion week men’s after nine years, and Kronthaler didn’t hold back. While Westwood shows have never conformed to gender tropes, this season’s collection felt particularly playful. Sparkling blue kitten heels clacked along the runway, as did the brand’s signature extra-high, platformed stomping boots. Short shorts and loose culottes were paired with double-breasted blazers, though it was the trousers that were the true stars of the show, some slim-fitting and harlequin print, others so high-waisted that they seemed to go on forever. The running theme of the show? That there wasn’t one, aside from the fact it was inherently Westwood – it’s magic in its mismatch. 

SAUL NASH

Saul Nash returned to the Milan fashion week schedule this season, showing his collection with a runway held at the city’s Teatro Principe, a venue that has been both a nightclub and a boxing ring. The duality of the venue’s history felt apt given the theme of the show, which explored the varying ways people can embrace one another, whether romantic, platonic, or maybe even during a boxing match. The image of two hands reaching for one another was printed onto the fabric throughout, as if someone had their arms wrapped around the wearer. Elsewhere, tight, flirty button-ups were cut out over one nipple. Overall, the palette was muted – butter yellows, lilacs and reflective greys – and the tailoring was loose and soft. As a designer, Nash has always found inspiration in movement, and this collection proved no different. 

OUR LEGACY

Cristopher Nying’s effortlessly cool Swedish brand, Our Legacy, celebrated its 20th anniversary this season. Titled B Sides, the collection was inspired by music, but instead of putting on a flashy anniversary show, was an ode to the grungy luxury streetwear foundations that the brand built its reputation on. Menswear and womenswear blurred together as one, featuring deconstructed tailoring, slouchy suits and oversized everything. As ever, each look was both wearable and timeless, as 90s as it was modern. As well as time, it’s a collection that also defies location. While Our Legacy is a brand born in Sweden, Nying’s designs could be seen as easily walking down the streets of Paris as they could in London pub The Shacklewell’s smoking area on a Friday night. 

GIORGIO ARMANI  

When Jonathan Anderson teased his Dior debut on Instagram several days before the show, he did so by sharing a Polaroid image of Jean-Michel Basquiat, photographed by Andy Warhol. But don’t be fooled: the suit that Basquiat is pictured wearing wasn’t Dior as you might assume, but Armani – the artist was a huge fan of the brand and was known to wear Armani suits no matter what the occasion. Undoubtedly, the Armani influence is one of fashion’s greatest, and this year, the 90-year-old designer is gearing up to celebrate the 50th anniversary of his namesake business. But before the real party gets started, during the SS26 men’s shows in Milan, Armani offered up an amuse-bouche of 112 looks. Designed by Leo Dell’Orco, head of Armani’s men’s style office, while Mr Armani remained at home (he’s currently recovering from a short illness), the show focused on the DNA silhouettes that the brand is known for. Through a stormy colour palette of navy, charcoal and khaki, the tailoring was slouched and worn nonchalantly. Like many of the shows this season, there was a distinct sleepiness to it – suits that could be as easily worn to an Italian wedding as for morning coffee. Basquiat, at least, would certainly do both. 

DOLCE & GABBANA

Dolce & Gabbana’s SS26 men’s show brought the pace down a notch at Milan fashion week with a sleepy show that had us dreaming of bed. It was a collection built almost entirely of pyjama sets, for the Italian gentleman who's had a long day at the office and is ready to commence his American Psycho-style skincare routine. Although the PJs were paired with outwear silhouettes such as trench coats, heavy-duty gilets and tailoring, the main message of the show was clear: it’s good night from Dolce. Models walked the runway to the sounds of Beethoven’s symphonies, while their looks were distinctly, deliberately undone – a common theme emerging this season. It was a playful show, reminiscent of those mornings when you wake up hungover, throw on a coat and march yourself to Tesco in desperate need of snacks and hydration (but make it luxury Italian fashion). 

HERMÈS

With soaring temperatures in the French capital, guests were glad to receive a cold flannel upon arrival at the Hermès SS26 men’s show. A nice touch from creative director Véronique Nichanian, who knows better than most that luxury is all about the details. “Summer in the city” was the main theme of the show. “Rooted and weightless silhouettes. Time no longer races. Air flows between the lines. Straight lines, sharp angles, neat contours,” were all phrases used to describe Nichanian’s collection. In essence, it was a very simple concept – a well-dressed man making his way through a hot city, but never breaking a sweat – executed to the highest level of attention to detail. Like all of her collections, Nichanian’s SS26 men’s offering honoured the maison’s history and reputation, whilst carrying it into the future. 

Y-3 

Yohji Yamamoto and adidas Originals’ SS26 Y-3 offering was unlike any other show this season. Namely, because it lasted almost 40 minutes and didn’t involve a runway, but an emotional contemporary dance piece instead. Like all of adidas’ ventures, the clothes are designed with movability and functionality at their core, so, during Y-3’s SS26 spectacle, each look was put to the ultimate test (and passed with flying colours). Entering the space in three groups, dancers from the KDV Performance Group thrashed about, kicking up the black sand beneath their feet, as choreographed by Kiani Del Valle. Paris’s 30+ degree heatwave, paired with such intense movement, meant the dancer’s sweat mixed with the sand, resulting in a sort of mud that was smeared across their bodies by the end of the performance. The choreography itself, as with most contemporary dance, offered many possible meanings – it could’ve been a tale of forbidden lesbian love, a zombie apocalypse, or both. In fact, someone call Danny Boyle, Y-3 has an idea for him.

AWGE

Rihanna attended just two shows this fashion week: Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut and A$AP Rocky’s second AWGE show, hosted inside Paris’ Temple de l’Etoile. As well as carrying one of Anderson’s new Dior totes on one arm, she held her and A$AP’s son Riot in the other. Titled Obligatory Fashion, the show was a commentary on how clothing is used as a form of categorisation and control. Models walked through courtroom-style security sensors wearing a jumble of bold prints, from clashing plaid to one pattern that included a gun, knife and handcuffs. Some men wore ballet pumps and rollers in their hair, while carrying roses in paper bags. Tailoring was paired with multiple bandanas, worn as accessories at the waist, meanwhile some jeans boasted multiple waistlines. The show also teased A$AP’s upcoming collabs with PUMA, giving us a glimpse of the new Mostro Gabbia trainers and Speedcats too. Whilst making his final bow, the designer plucked his one-year-old son from Rihanna’s arms, meaning Riot’s runway debut came during his dad’s sophomore show. 

CRAIG GREEN

Craig Green found inspiration in The Beatles for his SS26 men’s show. Channelling 60s psychedelia – as well as the effects of LSD – models walked the runway wearing LED lights over their eyes, initially intended for doll’s house purposes. The robotic-like eyes made for an eerie effect as models swished along the catwalk, draped in layered floral prints, rain macs and leather cummerbunds. During the last several looks, swathes of floral fabric were carried in the models’ mouths, recreating what it looked like when people used to fake exorcisms thanks to special effects. The collection featured several of Green’s signature silhouettes, plus multiple deconstructed elements, including knitwear that was so dishevelled it might as well have been a necklace. Bold block colours were layered over one another, teasing our attention away from the bright lights shooting out of the models’ eyes. 

AMIRI

Mike Amiri welcomed us through the doors of Hotel Amiri for his SS26 menswear show. Once inside, guests were welcomed by an opulent water feature in a hotel foyer setting – inspired by Los Angeles-based artist Wes Lang, who famously took over Chateau Marmont’s room 34. Models were cast as sleepy characters, just rolled out of bed after a raucous night. Similarly to Dolce & Gabbana and Jonathan Anderson’s Dior, some of the looks could have easily doubled-up as pyjamas. Despite the slightly drowsy undertone, the tailoring remained delicate and polished. Perfect for a high fashion hangover.