Georgian breakout star Situationist is strapped in for a new era

Fashion season might have its big, bolshy moments that take over the timeline with celebrity front rows and viral looks, but a lot of the time, some of the most exciting moments take place away from the beaten path. This was true of Paris when IYKYK Georgian label Situationist landed on the schedule for the first time in two years with a runway show instead of its usual presentation. 

Like many rising creatives right now, Situationist up against it. Georgia is in the midst of political turmoil and civil unrest, as the country’s older generation and its younger, more progressive one battle over whether or not to join the EU, conservative anti-LGBTQ+ laws are rolled out, and the threat from neighbouring Russia – historically a big fan of invading Georgia – continues to loom large. Despite this, creativity prevails, with capital city Tbilisi a hotbed of rising talent across the cultural sphere – from fashion and art, to music, cinema and beyond.

Unlike many designers working today, Situationist founder Irakli Rusadze has never shied away from using his collections to telegraph his political leanings and make bold, powerful statements. Past offerings have tapped into underground club culture, with his 2018 show taking place in Bassiani – a former swimming pool under a massive sports stadium that was eventually transformed into a landmark techno venue and haven for the queer community of Tbilisi – while his 2022 outing saw him land in an ancient bath house, where gay men would often meet in secret. 

Beyond sparking important conversations and highlighting issues faced by those in his region and beyond, Rusadze also just makes extremely fab clothes. Originally focused only on menswear when he launched the label in 2015, Situationist has evolved to encompass people of all genders, crafting collections that aim to dismantle the binary. For the boys, there are delicate halternecks in hammered silk, tiny knitted shorts, and second-skin rompers, while on the women’s side of things, slinky pencil skirts and dresses, sharp trenches, and voluminous bombers make up much of the line-up.

For AW25, Rusadze’s focus really returned to the clothes, as he experimented with new silhouettes and finishes. Models including Jill Kortleve walked the runway in flouncy faux fur trousers that emphasised the waist, while another standout for the braver out there came in the form of an asymmetric tank top which exposed a breast – in another’s hands this could have felt exploitative and for the male gaze, but in Rusadze’s it was provocative sure, but also sensual and powerful.

Now, the collection has been brought to life in a new campaign shot and styled by longtime collaborators Davit Giorgadze and Dogukan Nesanir, featuring Georgian model Mathilda Gvarliani. Stripped back and stark in style, Gvarliani is seen in a nipped leather jacket and a pair of the faux fur, wide-leg trousers, the breast-baring tank and some pretty severe looking gloves, as well as a sculptural tailored suit. The whole thing is finished with the brand’s new logo – back on the Paris Fashion Week schedule and with support from their growing community, after ten years in the game, Situationist is looking forward to a new chapter.

Check the AW25 Situationist campaign out in the gallery above, and head here to shop its latest collection.