Alyssa Marie Groeneveld: ‘Fashion can be superficial. I see my work as art’

Though athletic and robust, Alyssa Marie Groeneveld’s subversions in menswear have never come at the expense of any real-life men. Instead, she invents speculative characters in different settings, then deconstructs those archetypes to inform her label, AMG. “Each collection tells a fictional story shaped around unique characters who cross paths in public spaces,” she tells me, in a conversation over email. “In a football stadium, everyone is watching the same match, but each person expresses completely different emotions. It’s that layered perspective I try to capture through my designs.”

For the most part, Groenveld’s work unfurls the pent-up nexus of emotions that male football fans bottle up, not because she’s particularly a huge fan, but because “my dad always brought me to matches when I was younger, and I was intrigued by the emotions of the men I witnessed,” she told us back in 2023. In her most recent collection – a collaboration with Puma that uses deadstock from the brand – the designer twists tracksuits into knotted contortions, perhaps a nod to the constrictions of performed masculinity, but also turns puffer jackets and track tops into a swelling gown, one that billows freely in the wind. Elsewhere, jackets buckle into abstract forms, panelled joggers made from multiple pairs conjure the many men who’ve worn them before, and a football scarf is fashioned into an ab-bearing crop top, all pieces you can see in this new shoot from photographer Alex Arauz and stylist Mirko Pedone. “For this collection, I drew from the world inside the stadium,” says Groeneveld of the collection, “designing around the football players, the managers, and the supporters, each carrying their own energy, presence, and narrative.”

In the conversation below, we catch up with Groenveld about her ongoing Puma collab, a freeform approach to designing, and which designers she’d cast in her fantasy five-a-side.

Hey Alyssa – first of all, how did the collaboration with Puma come about, and what were the inspirations behind the collection?

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld: The collaboration began during my MA in Menswear Design at Central Saint Martins, when I met Puma footwear designer Jacob Alexander. I created my entire collection from donated Puma football garments and stayed in touch with his team. Last season, the collaboration grew as I partnered with my friend Johannes from Puma Nordic, promoting the Puma King shoe in my Paris showroom and crafting the full collection from Puma pieces.

The inspiration was a recap of all previous collections, bringing everything full circle back to the first story of my brand: football. I’ve always built my collections around characters that exist in public space, exploring their emotions, their roles, and the atmosphere they contribute to. For this collection, I drew from the world inside the stadium, designing around the football players, the managers, and the supporters, each carrying their own energy, presence, and narrative.

This collection is a capsule, and it marks a shift in both my strategy and direction. Knowing that I’m entering a new phase of my brand in the upcoming seasons, I wanted to take this moment to celebrate everything that’s come before, bringing the collections together as a way to close one chapter and welcome the next.

What is the inspiration behind your creative process as a whole?

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld: I’d say my biggest inspiration comes from everyday people in public spaces. Even though I design for a younger audience, I find myself most inspired by people in their 40s and older. There’s something so powerful about the way they dress without chasing trends – it's authentic, effortless, and rooted in a comfort with who they are.

My concepts are deeply rooted in my own spiritual growth. I always try to channel the energy of my present or the past six months into my work. Outside of fashion, I focus a lot on balance, self-awareness, and living in alignment with my authentic self – and that naturally feeds into my creative process. While fashion can often feel superficial, I see my work as a form of art. That’s why I work with my hands – it allows me to express emotion and energy directly into each piece.

Each collection tells a fictional story shaped around unique characters who cross paths in public spaces. Though they share the same environment, each one experiences that moment in their own way. For example, in a football stadium, everyone is watching the same match, but each person expresses completely different emotions. It’s that layered perspective I try to capture through my designs.

My process is very much rooted in the moment. I trust my hands to lead, allowing the garment to evolve organically – Alyssa Marie Groeneveld

When you’re not working with brands like Puma, where do you source the materials for your garments?

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld: I always source garments from Vinted or eBay and sometimes charity shops.

What’s the process for the more abstract garments in your collections? Do you sketch meticulously or take a more freeform approach?

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld: I actually never start with sketches. My design process begins directly on the mannequin – from prototyping and fitting to the final garment, everything is created in 3D. I always begin with certain techniques or ideas, but no piece ever comes to life the same way. My process is very much rooted in the moment. I trust my hands to lead, allowing the garment to evolve organically.

You studied at Willem de Kooning in Rotterdam for your undergrad, and then Central Saint Martins for your MA – in what ways were they similar, and in what ways were they different?

In terms of the education itself, there weren’t many similarities. However, visually and spatially, the school buildings had a similar open and spacious feeling – especially the workshops. The educational approach, though, was very different. For example, when I started at CSM, I didn’t even know what a lineup was. Willem de Kooning had a completely different focus, especially when it came to building a portfolio, and I was quite unaware of those expectations when I entered the MA program.

Football is such a big part of your aesthetic – which four designers are completing your fantasy five-a-side footy team?

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld: Martine Rose, Kazna Asker – that’s my bestie – Nasir Mazhar and Rei Kawukobo.

Are there any celebs you’re dying to dress and why?

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld: Kendrick Lamar, please shout me! He’s my favourite artist and I really like his way of dressing and how he presents himself.

And finally, what’s the worst advice someone’s ever given for AMG?

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld: Everything around me seemed to push me towards following the traditional fashion cycle – seasonal collections, showrooms, production, and then starting the whole process again every six months. I tried it, and I’m grateful for the experience, but I’ve come to realize that it doesn’t align with me. I want to explore a new path – one that’s more intuitive and in the moment when it comes to presenting my work. For me, it’s about surprise, attraction, and letting the work speak for itself. In a way, it’s similar to how I used to dress differently from my classmates – not to stand out, but simply because I felt I wasn’t the same.

Scroll through the gallery at the top of the page to see the entire AMG shoot