All eyes turned to Valentino this afternoon (January 29), as Alessandro Michele prepared to show his second collection for the Italian house since he took over as creative director last year. After making his surprise debut during the womenswear shows back in September, today he tried his hand at Haute Couture for the first time. Alessandro may have been at Gucci seven years, but let’s not forget, unlike Valentino, Gucci is not a couture house. Here’s everything you need to know. 

THE INVITE WAS A SET OF THREE BARS OF SOAP

Alessandro’s known for sending extraordinarily elaborate invites out for his shows, but this time it was kind of stripped back, consisting of a blue cotton box filled with three chunky bars of ivory soap – the almond-y scent of which immediately filled my hotel room and hasn’t yet diminished three days on. Etched across the top of the set was the word ‘Vertigineux’ which it later transpired was the name of the collection, translating to ‘dizzy’ in English – and whew, were we about to get spun out. 

ALESSANDRO GOT HIS LITTLE BLACK BOOK OUT

Loads of Alessandro’s pals made at Gucci followed him to Valentino, with everyone from Elton John and husband David Furnish to Nick and Susie Cave sat front row to cheer the Italian designer on. Also filing into the Palais Brongniart and out of the rain that’s been pouring for nine straight days now(!) was actor Colman Domingo and iconic divas Jasmina and partner-in-crime Da(aaaaa)vid of Jasmina TV – if you feel that way inclined you can watch an extremely fab short film we made when they took us vintage shopping at LA’s infamous Rosebowl flea market right here. 

…AND INVITED GUESTS INTO A LITTLE BLACK BOX

Whether casting an endless stream of identical twins or sending baby dragons down the runway, Alessandro’s show spaces have always been fantastical, and this Valentino one was no different. With guests warned via email that the space was kind of claustrophobic and those with aversion to flashing lights might want to sit it out, initially the venue was pretty underwhelming and dark. That changed when a black curtain rose and the runway was revealed. On a dark screen, red illuminated words that inspired the collection whizzed by behind models as they walked to the centre of the stage, where a big number correlating with their look blasted out behind them. It kind of felt like a videogame, in which you’re asked to choose your fighter – pretty tough when trying to figure out which of the 48 looks that made up the offering was actually the best.  

THE CLOTHES WERE INSPIRED BY OVERWHELMING LISTS

Inspired by a quote from Italian philosopher Umberto Eco that explores the “vertigo of the list”, Alessandro delivered a dizzying display of looks for his Valentino Couture debut. The idea of the infinite list and how lists have been used to document, store and keep track of culture throughout history was central to the show. And though lists are often thought of as something clinical and methodical that should clash with art, Alessandro’s Valentino is reframing the list as poetry. “It doesn't aim to tame the chaos, rather to contemplate it,” read the show notes, which were almost an infinite list in themselves – a wad of paper (200 pages, in fact) stacked on every seat.

Rather than a tool for planning and organisation, Alessandro’s list was made up of looks meant to be gazed at and appreciated individually, in all their quirks, opening with a dramatic gown complete with tulle jacquard skirt, woven bodice and billowing sleeves. Eccentric skirts were an integral part to the collection, no two the same, yet each with its own character. Variations in elaborate masks, eyewear and headpieces paraded the catwalk, as did fur, polka dots, fringing, bows and quilting. As seen with his work at Gucci, every look came with its own personality, but was somehow still immediately identifiable as an Alessandro creation. 

Inside Palais Brongniart, a building that initially housed the Paris stock exchange, models bounced down the catwalk in their circle skirts to the haunting vocals of Brigitte Lesne, an artist who specialises in the music of the middle ages (though it could easily have been Middle Earth). Behind them, words flashed in red on a giant screen, each alluding to the many ingredients of the collection: harlequin, Queen Victoria, journey, diamonds, medieval mystery, Mandarin fish. An endless list if you like. 

A FINALE NOT FOR THOSE WITH A NERVOUS DISPOSITION

The show erupted into chaos for the finale, accentuated by flashing lights that rendered it unsuitable for the faint of heart or anyone with photosensitive epilepsy. As the red words scrolled to their conclusion, they were replaced by a ream of ‘etceteras’ – it seems that even though the number of looks shown was finite, Alessandro’s list of references could go on forever.