When Willy Chavarria announced that he would be showing in Paris this season, you might think he would lean into his new surroundings and deliver something decidedly French – but you’d be wrong. In a move that actually seemed to double down on his American-ness, the designer set up shop at the American Church in Paris in the city’s 7th arrondissement for his latest show Tarantula, the first US church established outside the States all the way back in 1814.

Though this isn’t the first time Chavarria has explored the aesthetics of religion – SS23 took place in a Manhattan church, and the designer’s clothes are often mistaken for papal vestments – this evening felt like the most immediate rendering of that idea. On entering the AW25 church, the first thing that you noticed was the altar, covered in so many floral bouquets that you could barely make it out underneath. Those same bunches of roses, carnations and red grapes that covered the altar also lined the outskirts of the space near guests seats, along with ornate candelabras and plush red seats.

After a performance by a scene-stealing singer in a flowing, scarlet gown, the first looks hit the church aisle, with Willy’s signature boxy suiting, giant corsages and 70s collars making immediate appearances. From here, though, the designer soon made it clear that his big Paris Fashion Week debut would not be any normal runway, enlisting an all-star cast of big-hitters to join him in the French capital.

First up was former Dazed cover star Indya Moore in a black funeral coat, nipped in at the waist; then came Colombian megastar J Balvin in a wide-lapel tux giving his best Blue Steel; he was followed by British model and activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal, who’d been given a bouffant ’fro; and they were followed by Honey Dijon, wearing head-to-toe red denim. After that Alva Claire and Paloma Elsesser also made appearances, as well as photographer Luis Alberto Rodriguez, fashion TikToker Lyas, Dominican model Lineisy Montero and a bunch of street cast boys from both Paris and NY.

After an intermission performance by J Balvin, the white lights fell to red, the velvet zoot suits on the runway disappeared, and things got a little more devilish. Chavarria’s adidas collab was reupped for another season, with those street cast models materialising with slouchy tracksuits unzipped to the navel, and burly boxers entered the fray in nothing but billowing shorts. It seems that, even while at church, Chavarria can’t help but inject a little sleaze into proceedings – as is his right.