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Jacquemus ‘Le Raphia’ Show SS23 Paris
Courtesy of Jacquemus

Jacquemus turned wicker man at Paris ‘Le Raphia’ show

Thought runway shows were over for 2022? Think again. Here’s everything that went down at Simon’s sunny SS23 outing

If you thought the year had drawn to a close for fashion, you were wrong. 2022 might be in its final death throes, but the industry keeps on churning, with editors, influencers, et al jetting all over the world for a series of behemoth cruise shows. From Dior’s Egypt excursion, to Pucci’s pitstop in St. Moritz, fashion’s going out with a bang before out of offices are switched on and everyone files out of the office for the holidays. Perhaps last of all – though don’t quote me on that, because anything can happen in a week – was Simon Porte Jacquemus, who this afternoon put on his first show in 18 months. In case you missed it, here’s everything that went down.


While most are hunkering down at home in anticipation of the holidays, the celebs were out in force in France to see what Jacquemus had up his sleeve. Musicians Skepta and Jyoty rubbed shoulders with Mahmoud and Richie Shazam, as everyone went wild trying to get a glimpse of Jennie from BLACKPINK and Pamela Anderson, who showed up in an archival look topped off with a massive, face-obscuring hat. Also taking it all in was Central Cee, in a full Jacquemus trackie set and signature double-C necklace. After starring in the designer’s recent menswear campaign – in which he channelled a legendary pink 00s look worn by rapper Cam’ron – post-show he was overheard telling his manager he wanted to save his seat card for his ‘memory box’, which, considering how cynical plenty of fashion show attendees can be, was extremely cute.


The show was called Le Raphia and part of the reason behind that became apparent as the catwalk lights went up and the show kicked off. With snow falling across Europe early this week, Paris got a blizzard of its own as straw rained down from the ceiling and piled up on the catwalk. The audience weren’t safe either, as it blanketed them too – cut to the end of the show, and editors and influencers alike could be seen plucking stray strands off each others’ clothes and out of their hair.


Those with a keen eye on Instagram (hi!) may have spotted the designer playing a little trick by telling everyone that the Rapphia show would be his last on Sunday. A quick swipe, however, and it was revealed it was just his last show “of the year!”, meaning Jacquemus fans can breathe easy – according to him, there’s plenty more where that came from.


Remember those enormous straw hats that basically took over Instagram feeds everywhere in 2018? They were back for SS23, baby, as Jacquemus put his AW22 mountain sojourn behind him and returned to the cute little villages and hidden beaches of the South of France. The designer’s La Bomba collection was also surely on the moodboard for this season, with cut-out, twisted minidresses with spindly straps, classic Capri pants in indigo denim, and billowing white shirts all made their way around the catwalk.  

With Jacquemus faves like Irina Shayk, Jill Kortleve, and more walking, it was perhaps Vittoria who stepped out in the cheekiest look of all – consisting of a nipped-in blazer with a sweeping train, oversized raffia hat, and huge sunflower earrings, the model’s peachy little bum was out on full display as Simon declared “Non!” to pants for the new season. In case you hadn’t noticed, we’re in the middle of a cost of living crisis, so cutting the need for trousers at least saves you money, I suppose? 


It wouldn’t be a Jacquemus show without a raging party, and this time was even wilder than most. Linking up with Boiler Room, Simon descended into the bowels of the Palais de Tokyo to put on an event that went through the night – right up until 7am Tuesday morning. On the line up at Le Bisous Club were the likes of Jyoty, Toccororo, and MYGAL, with the whole thing hosted by iconic Drag Race super star The Symone. Like Diesel and Moncler before him this season, Simon also opened it up to the public, meaning it was far more fun than your typical stuffy fashion party.