Move over Prada bananas, there’s a new print in town
It’s news to no one that streetwear has dominated fashion for a while now, with logo-splashed hoodies, pumped-up sneakers, and all manner of trackies – designed to take you from day and night – among the most-hyped must-haves of the last few years or so.
Now, though, the tide finally seems to be changing, with the SS19 menswear collections awash with relaxed, understated tailoring, louche suits, and considerably fewer logos than in previous seasons, when they were slapped on basically anything that stayed still long enough. As fashion’s focus begins to shift, it makes sense then that the garments shrouded in hype will shift too. Some of the first to mark this new direction? Pieces from Dries Van Noten's psychedelia-tinged new-season offering, which have started to infiltrate Instagram in a big way.
Okay, we get it: mention the word HYPE and the Flemish designer isn’t necessarily the first person to spring to mind, but stay with us here. Having made his name in the mid-80s as part of the Antwerp Six, Van Noten is renowned for his meticulously crafted collections full of prints and patterns, and for generally keeping himself to himself, tucked away at his beautiful house in the Belgian countryside (seriously: that garden).
But, while it’s unlikely he’ll be dropping a DRIES-emblazoned hammer, pinball machine, or kayak any time soon, the designer seems to be picking up where Miuccia and her fire 50/50 shirt left off at the end of last year, with his (both figuratively and literally) wavy retro bowling shirts and boxy jackets, which drew inspiration from the Danish interior design of the 1960s.
Not letting the fact that it was technically menswear deter her (given gender ain’t nothing but a construct), the first to take the psychedelia off-runway was Beyoncé. Wearing a boxy, pyjama-style shirt and matching loose trousers – along with a pair of Jacquemus’s signature geometric mules – the singer posted her ‘fit to IG back at the beginning of February.
Soon after, Kevin Jonas appeared on the cover art of Jonas Brothers’ comeback track “Sucker” wearing the very same shirt, albeit to a slightly less enthusiastic response, as writer Dana Schwartz labelled his look ‘a cry for help’ on Twitter (seemingly, she missed the actual video, in which brother Nick plays a guitar wearing a waistcoat with nothing underneath, subsequently proving there are far, far bigger fish to fry). Points for giving it a go, though, given he was swimming in Yoncé’s fabulous, swirling wake, and no one needs that.
Offering salvation soon after was The Internet’s Steve Lacy, who turned up to the studio in a boxy cotton zip-up bearing the retro squiggle, before former collaborators Diplo and Swae Lee each pledged their allegiance to the Belgian label, posting photos of themselves dripping in Dries to IG less than 24 hours apart. The rapper went for a t-shirt and shorts set, while producer and Major Lazer founder chose a clashing shirt and jacket (all set off with a v cute french bulldog and a paper fan respectively).
While Van Noten has long been an unexpected fave among the rap community – with the likes of Pusha-T, Drake, Kanye West, and, of course, A$AP Rocky among his legions of fans – his SS19 collection has seemingly really struck a nerve. The only question that remains, though, is whether it’s cool enough for Jeff Goldblum to cast aside his custom Prada. Watch this space.