Besfxxk, Moho, and Münn all presented their latest collections as part of Seoul Fashion Week
After a month long trip from New York to London, and then Milan to Paris, the AW19 womenswear shows at the fashion capitals is now behind us. For some of the smaller – but rapidly growing – cities, the newest season is only just dropping.
In Korea, Seoul Fashion Week took place two weeks ago featuring a whole host of young, upcoming Korean talents. The initiative behind the event also teamed up with the British Fashion Council to invite the London-based duo behind Cottweiler to show an extension of their AW19 collection alongside homegrown names.
Elsewhere, the next generation of design talents presented their collections at a show specifically spotlighting students. The standout was Hyongsoo – designed by Hyungsoo Sim – whose collection featured slick deconstructed like tees with a trio of neckholes, bombers stitched together with elongated arms, and jeans that had a second pair trailing behind. “I’m so pleased to have had the opportunity to show my work to a much broader audience and connect with other designers and professionals in the fashion industry,” he tells us.
Here, we round-up three upcoming labels from Seoul’s fashion scene that you should be watching.
Founded by partners Jae Hyuk Lim and Bona Kim, Besfxxk – an amalgamation of ‘bespoke’ and ‘fucked up’ – despite studying in London (at the Royal College of Art and the London College of Fashion respectively) the design duo present in Seoul, briefly appearing on the Milan schedule for one season. Just like the label’s name, the newest collection saw the designers amalgamate different materials together. Coats appeared with huge slits, often pairing together clashing textures or prints. Elsewhere, models walked the runway with their hair wrapped around their faces, obscuring their features. It was sexy too though, with spandex tops and constrictive padding also appearing.
Two-year-old label Moho takes it name for the Korean adjective ‘moho-hada’ which means ambiguous – exactly what designer and founder Lee Kyu Ho wants to portray with his art-meets-fashion looks. For AW19, this manifested in the form of a dark collection entitled ‘Animalite’. Models appeared faces obscured by hoods or balaclavas wearing jackets in a transparent bubble wrap-esque material, padded nylon vests, and porcupine-like bomber jackets with black cable tags protruding from the back. In addition to the ready-to-wear line, Kyu Ho also launched Moho White Label last year – a more commercial version that’s a little more wearer-friendly. So, something for everyone!
After initially pursuing a career in graphic design, Münn designer Hyun Min-Han had a swift change of course when he discovered the work of Alexander McQueen. Since launching the label in 2013, Min-Han has been committed to “luxurious defamiliarisation” – reinterpreting ideas/silhouettes that viewers might recognise in new ways, using new technologies. For the recently released AW19 collection this meant taking traditional suiting cues (menswear shirts and ties) and mixing them with more casual materials like denim. For the womenswear looks, oversized blazers and jackets were paired with lace tights, gloves, or chokers or alternatively backpack-like harnesses.