Three Milan menswear designers resign in one week

Today, via The Business of Fashion, Stefano Pilati announced that he would be leaving Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, where he has held the position of head designer for the last three years. “I have given much consideration to this decision and after thoughtful conversations with Gildo Zegna, we have reached the conclusion that the mission he entrusted me with had been fulfilled,” he said in a statement, “I now wish to focus on other projects that I had put aside in order to achieve our common goals with Zegna Couture.”

Pilati’s is the third announcement of its kind this week – two other Milan-based menswear designers have also announced their departures from their respective brands: Brendan Mellane from Brioni and Alessandro Sartori from Berluti. While Mellane’s reason for leaving his position has not been revealed, it is understood that Sartori left for a “new opportunity,” reported The BoF.

Pilati’s announcement comes in the wake of the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture’s AW16 show – the designer’s last for the brand. The show featured a series of embellished knits and fur jackets, which were presented to the sound of David Bowie’s 1975 song “Right”.

This week of departures comes amid great turmoil within the fashion industry. Over the past year we’ve seen Alexander Wang exit Balenciaga, Raf Simons leave Christian Dior, Alber Elbaz depart Lanvin; Kris Van Assche and Jonathan Saunders close their eponymous labels; and Jean Paul Gaultier and Giles Deacon shutter their ready-to-wear lines. There are even rumours that Hedi Slimane is planning to exit Saint Laurent.

While different reasons – such as the speed of the industry and the current economic climate – have been cited, it’s clear that fashion is in a state of flux.