Meet one of K-pop’s favourite fashion designers

Largely thanks to K-pop, Korean culture has gone global in the last five years, with artists such as G-Dragon and CL achieving success in the west, as well as Korea itself. When it comes to the country’s fashion exports, menswear designer Juun.J is one of its finest. With “classic and tailoring” as his self-created design mantra, he is known for his highly innovative approach to men’s clothing – an approach characterised by his outlandish proportions.

Naturally, he’s caught the attention of some of the music industry’s most forward-thinking dressers, both in Korea and elsewhere: G-Dragon, Big Bang’s Taeyang, Pusha T, Wiz Khalifa and Rihanna have all been spotted wearing his designs. Now he’s headed to Pitti Uomo – Florence’s biannual trade show – where he’ll be presenting his AW16 collection as menswear guest designer, following in the wake of Moschino, who showed last season, and Hood By Air, who did so the season before. 

This season, the shows have been given the theme ‘Pitti Generation(s)’ and will look at the “simultaneity of the many different generations in fashion and styles of today” as well as how the “speed of contemporary life compresses and mixes personal and generational time, taking in nostalgic references and experimentation”. Joining Juun.J at the event is Italian designer Marco de Vincenzo, who will be the womenswear guest designer.

Ahead of his Florentine debut, Juun.J talks to us about street style, music icons and the future of menswear.

Why are you inspired by what you see on the street? What have you seen recently that has inspired you?

Juun.J: Styles on the street are everyday and avant garde at the same time. I examine people on the streets very closely, from stylish people to elderly people and soldiers. The reason is these styles can be cooler than runway collections is that these people carry dynamic elements which cannot be seen on runway models. Most recently I have been inspired by vintage military uniforms.

You’ve previously cited Helmut Lang as inspiration – why?

Juun.J: There is always something I feel after watching his shows. All his collections have different concepts, but there is a link that connects each season; through that link he shows his brand’s consistency. Also, he is an artist, not a fashion designer any more, and yet he’s is still suggesting many things. After surprising the fashion world and public with his genius, he has been distinguishing himself in the fine arts, where he really wanted to succeed. He is someone I look up to as a designer and as a person.

Are there any musicians that you work closely with?

Juun.J: I always work with sound director Michel Gaubert for the collection. Since I met him in person, he is my favourite artist to work with. We discuss the collection’s mood, theme and clothes in a meeting before the show and he always responds with music surpasses my expectations. 

Pusha T, Wiz Khalifa, G-Dragon and Rihanna have all worn Juun.J. Is there any particular musician you love seeing wearing your clothes?

Juun J: It’s really gratifying and exciting for me to see any musicians love my clothes and wear them, but if I have to pick someone, it would have to be G-Dragon and Taeyang of Big Bang. They have unbelievable passion about their work and they are such professionals. These qualities translate to their clothes so it’s always exciting to share inspiration and thoughts with them.

“I think there will be many changes in the future of menswear. Men will disregard archaic forms of masculinity and create new forms of masculinity instead” – Juun.J

How do you feel about showing in Florence?

Juun.J: I believe presenting the collection at Pitti Uomo is a real honour. It is extremely special because being menswear guest designer there is kind of like taking centre stage in the world of menswear.

What do you think is the future of menswear? 

Juun.J: I think there will be many changes in the future. Men will disregard archaic forms of masculinity and create new forms of masculinity instead. But I believe there will be many changes in design as well – categories such as nationality, gender and age won’t be important any more. I welcome this change.

Head here to watch a new film on the theme of this season’s Pitti Uomo – Pitti Generation(s)