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Emilio Pucci AW15 Dazed backstage Womenswear leather patch
Bhumika Arora (Elite) backstage at Emilio Pucci AW15Photography Virginia Arcaro

Emilio Pucci AW15

Peter Dundas says goodbye to the label with a star-studded cast in astrological prints

Initial reaction:

It was written in the stars as Peter Dundas signed off at Emilio Pucci with a final collection full of rock ‘n’ roll addled sexiness – an element that he had introduced in to the house. His signature wow factor casting came strutting out unapologetically in op-art thigh high boots, backless dresses tied with a suggestive bow and sultry velvet trousers. The prints were themed around astrology, and stellar is exactly how you’d sum up Dundas’s six years at Pucci. 

What’s your sign:

It seemed fitting that Dundas should send out a collection riddled with astrological star signs correlating to the model-manic casting. The finale passage of long and lean jersey dresses had Lily Donaldson repping Aquarius, Anja Rubik Cancer and Joan Smalls Leo. Eva Herzigova, who presided as queen of them all, of course had all the constellations embellished on her velvet jacket. These astrology motifs with their character traits matched up to the star-studded cast of strong women in fashion, film and music that Dundas has courted in his tenure at Pucci.

A fond farewell:

It hasn’t been officially announced, but broke the story yesterday that this Pucci show would be Dundas’ last. The designer took his bow alongside his studio team as a gesture of thanks to his fans and the house. Rumours are already swirling about the comings and goings. Is Dundas going to go back to Roberto Cavalli? Is Marco Zanini, having recently left Schiaparelli, coming in? Whoever his successor is, you can’t quite imagine him or her matching up to Dundas with his penchant for high-wattage, hot-blooded, unabashed sexiness. That type of designer feels like a dying breed.