Muted and confident tailoring with an air of tough modernity. Or, as Sir Paul Smith aptly dubbed it: ‘Formal functionality’. It was a subdued but strong offering from the designer, who was kind enough to hold the show until the last stragglers (i.e. us) had arrived thanks to nightmare Sunday traffic.
Sir Paul loves a girl in masculine tailoring and the collection drew on this crossover with what felt like a new ease and pared-down elegance. Roomy silhouettes were borrowed from his check-tastic AW15 menswear with dark grids the colour of stormy skies and seas, and trousers puddled over brown block-heeled boots with tonal snakeskin heels.
A standout look was a mustard shearling duffle coat – a ray of sunshine on a day of torrential rain and general London gloom.