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Ammerman Schlösberg AW15, womenswear, red, black, robe, NY
Backstage at Ammerman Schlösberg AW15Photography Evan Schreiber

Ammerman Schlösberg AW15

‘Beautiful but fucked up’ porcelain dolls with bare breasts and bruised faces expose the dark side of Lolita culture

Initial reaction:

Blood flecked pale faces, eye patches and goth drenched clothes – welcome to the “furry hospital.”

Girls, interrupted:

“The Ammerman Schlösberg girl is evolving,” said Eric Schlösberg. “She still loves bows and glitter but she's going through some issues...” For this collection, the wacky pair focused on the dark, death-ridden side of hospitals. To a soundtrack of Korns’ “Dead Bodies Everywhere” and English punk group Crass’ “Poison in a Pretty Pill”, troubled patients stalked around in buckled stomp boots and dripped in black and scarlet gothic garb. Make-up artist Mark Carrasquillo also gave the disturbed dames a fake bloody nose here, and torn mouth there – with suggestions of bruising around the eyes. Both of the designers also donned the look themselves, keeping with the unsettling theme.

The lolita thing:

The duo definitely have a penchant for Japanese Lolita subculture – so far, it has featured in every collection. “The Lolita girl is truly a renaissance woman,” said Liz Ammerman. This time the “guro” or gory lolita served as the prime inspiration. In the same way that Western subcultures are subverted in Japan, Ammerman Schlösberg have selected a Japanese subculture and are remixing it, for the New York of here and now.

The soundtrack to Ammerman Schlösberg AW15: