Initial reaction:

An android metropolis under grey skies. Milan is in a single colour statement kind of mood, and Italo Zucchelli looked to grey ("for me, the quintessential Calvin Klein colour," he said) with splashes of black, inspired by the various shades of grey in black and white movies. "Because it’s only one colour, I wanted to really make the textures speak," he said of the cheetah and leopard prints he had translated into subtle and coolly modern embossed effects, and chosen for the strength, power and the hunter instinct which the animals represent.

Shapes and shine:

Zucchelli is always drawn to the contrast between textures, and there was something sexually charged about the way he put woolly trousers – cut tight across the bum – with super cropped vinyl jackets that drew attention to the waist. "I really like the idea of doing cropped pieces. It's always very masculine, they emphasise the male proportions, but to make it even shorter with a high waisted pant emphasises that even more," he said. 

How it was worn:

With slick, gelled-back sci-fi hair, leather baseball caps and working men style brogues.

The soundtrack to Calvin Klein AW15: