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J.W.Anderson AW15 Mens LC:M Dazed
Backstage at J.W.Anderson AW15Photography Virginia Arcaro

J.W.Anderson AW15

‘It's about rejecting nostalgia’: from wide collars to sleek leather jackets, the designer mixes styles from decades past for apocalyptic androgyny

TextKin WooPhotographyVirginia Arcaro

Initial reaction:

The purple, spongey runway was made out of recycled car tyres. The soundtrack by Michel Gaubert, was a hypnotic litany of things gone wrong – like something out of George Orwell’s 1984. The clothes, from the 90s style bootcut pants with slits down the sides, to the 60s leather jackets, were a patchwork of styles across the decades. Yes: this was a typically thought-provoking, disorientating experience from J.W.Anderson.

Time travel tailoring:

“I like this idea of something that felt a little apocalyptic, or looking like it came from a computer game,” explained Anderson backstage of the show’s setting. As for the clothes, they were a “mishmash of decades – I like isolating the idea of the look.” So the fabric on a coat could be from the 60s but the detailing on it from the 70s. “We were reflecting on different tribal movements and hybridising them. Is it an 80s jacket or not? Does that even matter? It’s about rejecting nostalgia.”

Stand out looks: 

Elements of his womenswear Pre-AW14 and even his work with Loewe could be glimpsed. Arrestingly odd details abounded, like oversize collars and sleeves and buttons fabricated from metalwork. But his provocateur stance was tempered by immediately desirable clothes like the two-tone turtlenecks, degrade effect car coats and super chic leather jackets.

The sountrack to J.W.Anderson AW15: