Initial reaction:

Orchestrated calm. 

"Your sweat, your sex":

"The way the sun hit America" is the first line of the last stanza of Eckhaus Latta's seasonal poem press release. The fourth line of the first stanza: "Amber haze from your sweat, your sex.” This collection was, to quote the designers, "our sexiest yet." The runway stream started clean then became dirty. The first models out wore raw sky blue denim with crisp white weaves and terry knits. After that set, the tones turned warmly corrosive. Rust was Eckhaus Latta's dye of choice; they made it themselves, oxidising steel with lemon and vinegar. 

A new feeling:

Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta have gone bicoastal. This was their first collection made between two cities, New York and Los Angeles. The designers claimed their bicoastalism affected the collection only subtly. "There’s a dryness to this season that I know is coming from California," said Zoe, the LA resident. "You'll see Oxford shirting has a different feeling when it’s hung on a line to dry in a backyard than when it’s drycleaned in the financial district," she continued. "Both processes are in this collection. But it's not about that.” Afterwards, Mike, New York, rejoined: "We never design for a place. I think we design by feeling." The feeling this season was gentle and exposed. A youth choir sang live over static sounds like water running. Several pairs of nipples perked through fabric ("No two nipples are the same distance apart – did you know that?" read the release). The show ended with the models huddling, hugging, and bowing in towards one another, placid faced – a dance choreographed by Elle Erdman.