Initial reaction:

Well-heeled boys with a subtly rebellious streak. Kris Van Assche was set on throwing the traditional off balance, with ties tucked into pockets leaving them seemingly cut in half, and pristine suit trousers expertly slashed at the knees.

Back to the future:

For his twentieth show, Van Assche was looking both forward and backward, referencing the past in a way that felt current rather than nostalgic. In a cleaner, more precise rendering of 80s and 90s style codes, acid wash denim was actually printed cotton and American football-style stripes encircled the arms of formal Harrington jackets.

How it was worn:

Models strutted (hands in pockets) in chunky soled shoes and vibrant contrast colour pool slides and flip flops. Backpacks in khaki nylon – tying into the MA1 bombers of the collection – and lightwash denim provided the collection’s accessories.

Last season, Van Assche was influenced by the art of John Baldessari, with pop colour patches appliquéd onto tailoring.