Electric and hyper-modern, with subculture-inspired touches: this was Raf Simons coming into his own.
LED screens on the ceiling mimicked the canopy of flowers from last season, and set a real feeling of electricity for the show – even more so when the Michel Gaubert-produced soundtrack began pulsating through the space.
Simons subculture codes:
Quilted neon nylon was transformed into evening dresses, in homage perhaps to 80s puffa jackets and the birth of British casual wear. It seems Simons’ inherent subculture codes are beginning to make their mark at Dior. This season’s recurring concept of the avant-bland made an appearance in the dark suiting and pinstripes that opened the show.
In the details:
Shoe string lacing crisscrossed up dresses, and corseted the back of jackets. A single sweep of floral embellishment fell across the side splits on bright layered cocktail dresses and grey furs came dipped in hot pink pigment. The final looks were a perfectly executed mash of high and low fashion: gauzy gowns embellished with a galaxy of sequins, worn over simple white t-shirts.
Progressive and thoroughly Simons, rather than feeling restricted by the Dior archive. Sweetheart necklines fell askew and layered over halter or strapped contrast necklines, and oversized ‘scarves’ wrapped the neck, expanding over the body before merging into the clothes themselves.