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Tess Hellfeuer (Women) backstage at Marni AW14Shot by Paolo Musa

Marni AW14

Forget sports-luxe, welcome sports-couture in fearless folk detailing and sculpted silhouettes

TextSusie LauPhotographyPaolo Musa

Initial reaction:

A sportswear-attired tribe: sportswear has long been part of Consuelo Castiglioni's oeuvre at Marni but today it was amplified with couture-inspired silhouttes, made to look "off" in some instances and then finally given a folkloric and artisanal twist. 

Stand out looks:

Nylon padded tracksuit tops and bottoms worn with high funnel necks and huge turn-ups – they gave new meaning to the term sports-luxe. When Castiglioni got visceral, you had an array of feathers multiplying and swarming all over skirts and coats. There was a sincerity about the application of fearless folksy detailing.    

The prints:

Magnus Plessen's stripped painted portraits were printed on silk aerated tunic dresses. The look of dripping and chipped off paint was turned into a print.

The hair:

Wet hair gelled and matted over the forehead – windswept and sea drenched. It was just as textural as the collection.   

How they wore it:

Yet more fraggle rock fur as per many of the shows in Milan, but at Marni, they were worked into brightly coloured elastic-banded stoles or earthy-toned giant patchwork fur coats, cinched in at the waist.  

Models: Tess Hellfeuer (@tesshellfeuer), Elodia Preito (@Elodiaprieto), Nastya Yatchuk (@NastyaYatchuk), Larissa Marchiori, Valery Kaufman (@ValeryKaufman), Tabitha Pernar, Manuela Frey (@FreyTatjana), Marije Kea (@Marijekea), Leila Nda, Maartje Verhoef (@maartjeverhoef), Charlotte Lindvig (@CharlotteLindvig), Johanna Jonsson, Ashleigh Good (@ashinstagood), Ronja Furrer (@furrerronja), Irina Kravchenko (@iriska_kravchenko), Emma Waldo (@waldoemma), Mijo Mihaljcic (@mijomihaljcic), Anna Ewers (@AnNaEwers), Nastya Sten, Fei Fei Sun (@FeiFeiSunSun), Josephine Van Delden (@josephinevandelden), Georgia Taylor (@GeorgiaKTaylor), Ophelie Guillermand (@ophelieguillermand), Lieke Van Houten (@liefsteliekex).