Jason Wu AW14

Initial impression:

We've seen 90s street wear come back around, but here, Jason Wu throws a welcome back party for the decade's elegant evening hallmarks: bias cut dresses with spaghetti straps, velvet gowns, dressed-up turtle necks, and the long-lost-but-not-forgotten cowl neck. Welcome, all of you, on behalf of Jason Wu and fans of 90s Gwyneth Paltrow everywhere.

Set:

Marble archways with carved keystones lined the runway. If you added a smoke machine and some ivy, it would have looked like the set for a minimal Kate Bush music video.

Shoes:

For all the show's moodiness, metallic t-strap shoes brought in an element of Jason Wu glamour. Even with as many trousers on the runway as dresses, he can't resist a pop of all-out feminine fancy.

Karlie:

It surprises no one to see Karlie Kloss close a show. But seeing her in a bias-cut velvet chiffon dress--the update of a style we saw on so many of the great 90s supers – feels particularly nice. Like everything in the universe is connected.

Late start:

When the show finally began, the house lights went down for almost a minute before the show began. Though that sounds like a short time, it's rare to be sitting silently in the dark with a massive crowd of people. When's the last time you were awake without visual or aural stimulation? That palette cleansing pause (even if accidental) should open every show.