Fashion / IncomingOpinion: averaging the avant-gardeBy sending flea market junk, tattoos and found textiles down the runway, has Margiela redefined haute couture?ShareLink copied ✔️January 24, 2014FashionIncomingTextNatasha SleePhotographyLea ColomboMaison Martin Margiela Artisanal Couture SS14 Tattoos, trash and trainers. At Haute Couture this week, the unremarkable became the desirable, the everyday was elevated, and street suddenly a word muttered under the same breath as les petites mains. Even Christian Dior opened its hallowed atelier doors to fashion students to wonder in awe at the gowns in final show preparations. Which no doubt made going home to pot noodle even more poignant. At Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal, the obsessive hoarder ostracised by society emerged in headdresses dripping with tarnished silver, beads and broken pearl necklaces. The ‘small found objects’ were sourced from flea markets in Paris and Brussels, one sleeveless suit embroidered with such objects took 65 hours to create. Like the priceless trinkets seeped in nostalgia that gather dust on your nan’s mantelpiece, Margiela elevated trash to treasure and got us inspired to spend next weekend foraging in junk shops for our own piece of Margiela (because what is Haute Couture if it can’t inspire?) What’s better is the thought of Margiela’s trinket laden gown hanging next to the pristine crystal embellished silks of a Couture collector’s wardrobe. Left, 'Portrait of Madame Dufy', Raoul Dufy; right, Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal SS14Right, Lea Colombo Margiela Artisanal’s tattoo embroideries clustered together to form peeping bodices had an undertone of Americana and sunburnt, burly seamen with dirty laughs – apt considering the maison had based the designs on the Sailor Jerry motifs of tattoo artist Norman Keith Collins. The Russian elite might sneer at an inked heart branded with ‘mom’, but they’ll no doubt stifle their prejudices for this piece and its sequined motifs. "Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal have caught us off guard, forcing us to look again and rethink our preconceptions" In a similar vein, at Chanel Haute Couture, street sneakers were treated to a little crystal dust and presented as the it-item of the season. Paired as they were with mother-of-the-bride twinsets and pastel tweeds, Lagerfeld’s spectacle became a combined shopping list for the world’s wealthiest mothers and daughters. But back to Maison Martin Margiela… Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal SS14Lea Colombo Like AW13, where the Maison paired everyman’s denim with a bouquet chest plate of exotic flowers, and reimagined the weekend slob pairing of tee and jeans in sex-shop latex, Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal have caught us off guard, forcing us to look again and rethink our preconceptions of what Haute Couture really means today. The Chinese opera coats and suits they presented this season were made from ornate textiles not dissimilar to the curtains in the windows of our fuddy elderly neighbours. Yet the prints here had in fact been coaxed from the rare archives of Frank Lloyd Wright and Raoul Duffy. To the untrained eye, Haute Couture doesn’t always belie its hefty price tag – and here was an example where you had to be in the know to really know. One man’s trash, an’ all that. Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal AW13Lea ColomboEscape the algorithm! Get The DropEmail address SIGN UP Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday. Privacy policy Thank you. You have been subscribed Privacy policy Expand your creative community and connect with 15,000 creatives from around the world.READ MORETouching grass was the biggest trend of AW26Mask4mask: Masquerade was having a moment at the AW26 showsCeline is sick of irony! Plus everything you missed at Paris Fashion WeekAdidas tapped the City of Angels for its latest release ZimmermannZIMMERMANN celebrates trailblazing women for AW26 Alysa Liu makes her Paris Fashion Week debut at Louis VuittonMiu Miu AW26: Chloë Sevigny and Gillian Anderson just walked at PFWKiko Kostadinov is taking flight for AW26Chanel AW26: Matthieu Blazy’s butterflies are ready for the ballLVMH Prize 2026Inside an exclusive celebration for the semi-finalists of the LVMH Prize vansCatch SZA in an internet cafe for Vans Off The WallMcQueen AW26 was a Hollywood horror showEscape the algorithm! Get The DropEmail address SIGN UP Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday. Privacy policy Thank you. You have been subscribed Privacy policy