Jil Sander AW14

Initial reaction:

Pure at heart: despite the fact Ms. Sander is no longer at the helm.

Neat freak:

Everything felt very reduced, like the coat hoods that seemed ironed flat down the back of the model’s necks. Fastenings were always done up at the neck then left undone: a single button, or a zip closed just halfway from the top.

Textural:

The dots on the invitation were a taste of the subtle embossed bubbles that adorned the tailoring, bringing a dynamic quality to the otherwise very unfussy, refined silhouettes. Colour also added movement: the taffeta-like dull shimmer of plum tailoring, the oily slick of shoes and wet-look trousers, and a speckled purple and white print – the loudest noise in a quiet collection.   

Stand out look:

A leather jacket and coat felt full of air and volume, uninterrupted by seams, with curved sleeves and silhouette.

How they wore it: 

With hair super sleek in a side parting, and clutching leather zipped pouches, folded over.