Paul Smith British Collection AW14

Initial reaction:

Old-school English tailoring for a brave new world. Fine check and pinstripe were played alongside Middle Eastern pattern and embroidery.

Location:

The presentation was held at Persian rug store Essie on Piccadilly, a rich, sumptuous setting in keeping with the handmade craftsmanship of the British Collection. Mannequins stood against rolls of deep plush carpet.

Tailoring precision:

A blue floral jacquard suit saw the print woven to exact measurements into the fabric, so that when it was buttoned, the floral pattern matched perfectly. To achieve this, the fit of the jacket has to be anticipated before weaving, creating a completely unique piece.

Collaboration:

Working closely with long-time collaborator Yorkshire mill Joseph H. Clissold, Paul Smith pushed fabric technology and created all fabrics bespoke to the designer. His dedication to English manufacturing underpins this very British collection.

Preview:

A snapshot of next week’s Paris collection was displayed, and ran in the same rich, tapestry vein.