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JILSANDER_SS14_19
Tilda Lindstam at IMGPhotography by Lea Colombo

Jil Sander SS14

Pleasing Sander purists with clinical lines, refined texture and subtle deconstruction

TextSusie LauPhotographyLea Colombo

Initial reaction:

Clinical and controlled; stepping into her stride and embarking on new textural territory.  

References: 

Italian conceptual artist Alighiero Boetti, energy fields and random access memory moments. 

Stand out looks:

The painterly prints combining expressionist brushstrokes and a camouflage effect, a pearlescent shift dress and a black satin jacket with the open vents. 

Unexpected details:

Feathers in a Jil Sander show. Harnessed under restraint, of course. 

Accessories:

Sparse and strategically placed - a structured bag with PVC panels mirroring the painterly prints, three-fold leather clutches and wooden sculpted wedges.

Most likely to:

Appease diehard Sander fans with her boxy tailoring and subtle nods to deconstruction. 

Least likely to:

Stand in a uniform line - this was Jil Sander being playful with a random assemblage of different silhouettes. 

Atmosphere:

Precise and finessed - the models walked through perspex panels placed like architectural interventions around the catwalk. 

Soundtrack:

Ambient techno build up composed by Frederic Sanchez. 

Quote of the show: 

Jil Sander's kind of poetry.

Through the looking-glass, back to the material world

Declaration of purity, moving, gazing, craving transcendence

Breezy freshness, airy suspension, joyful serenity

Cybernetic curves and proportions

Models: Maartje Verhoef (@maartjeverhoef), Elodia Prieto, Kate Goodling (@kategoodling1), Vanessa Axente (@VanessaAxente), Nastya Sten (@Kusakina_Nastya), Kai Newman, Paulina King, Kayley Chabot (@kayleychabot), Ine Neefs, Elisabeth Erm, Cici Xiang Yejing, Zoe Huxford (@zoehuxford), Josephine Le Tutour (@JosephineLT_), Charlotte Lindvig, Fei Fei Sun (@FeiFeiSunSun), Marine Deleeuw (@marine_deleeuw), Julia Nobis, Katlin Aas (@AasKatlin), Maja Salamon, Irina Liss (@irinaliss), Hedvig Palm (@hedvigpa), Esther Heesch (@estherheesch), Sabrina Ioffreda, Zlata Mangafic (@zlatamangafic), Tilda Lindstam (@tildalindstam), Carla Ciffoni, Josephine Van Delden (@josephinevandelden), Ophelie Guillermand (@ophelieguillermand), Eva Berzina