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Esther Heesch at Next

Miu Miu AW13

30s meets 90s sportswear, graphic polka dots and stripes framing those eye candy shoes

The Conseil Economique, Social et Environnemental space was completely transformed by Miuccia Prada’s longtime collaborator AMO into a compressed one. Black metal grates shrunk the normally grand and cavernous space into an isolated layer. We were expecting a trip to space but instead got 1930s dollies crossed with 90s derived sportswear. Miuccia Prada knows how to drum in a silhouette and by the end of the show we got it.  Jackets come wide-collared and curved at the shoulder, nipping in at the waist and tapering off into a mid-calf slim skirt. They were also zippered ribbed dresses or fur coats belted at the waist with extended collars. A jaunty polka dot neck tie, a show of stripy tights and a pair of Victorian-derived spats-adorned ankle boots were just the quirkster touches to lighten up the mostly black and navy streamlined frock dress look that Prada was feeling.

As if to prevent the collection from tipping too far towards a certain historical period, Prada pulled it back to the future with a take on bomber jackets turned into waisted and off-the-shoulder dresses or quilted skirts and tube tops. Polka dots in pop-pop-pastel hues also threw a curveball into the collection, lest we were tempted to put this collection into a style epoch-defined box. Juxtaposition was the final key word that we left with. What to make of the industrial grates, the jaunty polka dots and the bomber zippers? Just go with it. It’s a bit of fun for Miuccia.

Hair: Guido Palau

Models pictured: Caroline Loosen-@CarolinLoosen, Elise Smidt-@eliseliezel, Nastya Kusakina- @Kusakina_Nastya