Richard Nicoll's AW13 collection, his sophomore menswear outing, had a touch of curious orange about it. Make that 'I am Kurious, Oranj', The Fall's soundtrack to Michael Clark's ballet of the conventional spelling, as Nicoll's show built to a crescendo of that hue, set to the driving rhythm of 'Big New Prinz'.

Described in the notes as "a modern uniform inspired by post-punk/no wave rebellion, brutalist architecture and a mix of industrial/classical essentials," cleaned-up MA-1s, jean and biker jackets were offered alongside new takes on the duffle coat in mirrored silver, tailored jumpsuits and splatter paint finish; the collection was built from merino wool/cashmere, angora, jacquard, brushed cotton canvas and loren felt fabrications – and felt every bit as assured as that bassline.