The Perfect Cut: on Camilla Wellton’s designs

Up and coming designer Camilla Wellton claims there are mystical vibes in her recent “Dakini” collection, but there is also a touch of Japonisme-meets-Cossack style in her garments, such as the coats and jackets that she has re-christened “Kimonoat” and “Kimonacket”. As in traditional kimonos, the focus in Wellton’s T-shaped and straight lined outerwear is not on the waist, but on the shoulders. Indeed, the fabric flows from the shoulders opening into two wide sleeves, while the intricate knot of the obi - the sash generally made of fine yards of fabric that ties at the back and holds together the kimono - is reduced to a flat obi, stylised into a minimalist bag incorporated into the coat. If studied in detail, the geometrical and rational beauty, simplicity and sobriety of the “Kimonoat”, also bears the imprint of the “everyday clothes” designed by Russian constructivist painter Aleksandra Ekster: the curved collar that makes the essential shape of the kimono is replaced by a Cossack style high standing collar and the asymmetrical fastening also evokes the Russian blouse.

Dazed Digital: Was becoming a fashion designer what you always wanted to do in your life?  
Camilla Wellton: Clothes claimed my attention and my love very early in my life. I irrevocably denied my parents the right to choose my clothes and style my hair for me when I was about 7. And even then I despised following trends. Styling my own and often extreme outfits was as natural as breathing for me.

DD: What inspired your latest collection and what inspires you in general? 
CW: It was inspired by elegance and graceful mystical motions. “Dakinis” are Yoginis who embody Shakti, the primal expression of moving energy. I wanted to make some items that would hook me onto their vibe. My personal experience of life influences all my work as a designer. I tend to mostly look inwards for inspiration. Emotion and intuition guide my creative process, I create because I need to, creating soothes and balances me.   

DD: Can you talk us through your creative process?
CW: It starts with a vision of a style, then I make a quick sketch and proceed to do the pattern cutting, It’s during the making of the pattern and the several toiles that I get most of my ideas actually. It’s as if my hands need to be at work on the actual garment to get the creative juices flowing. When the final toile is ready I go and hunt for materials. 

DD: Do you ever sketch your designs together with your customers?
CW: Most people who order custom-made designs from me have excellent design ideas. They know what they lack and what they haven’t found in the shops. It’s a very interesting project every time and the final result is a combination of my ideas and theirs.

DD: You decided to donate 10% of every item you sell to Vi Skogen for their agroforestry and tree projects in Africa, can you tell us more about your decision? 
CW: I want to contribute to the well-being of the planet. I love trees, they’re beautiful and they give us breathable air. I liked the idea that my designs - which I conceive as something very essential to my life - can help Vi Skogen’s efforts to plant more of them. 

DD: Who are your favourite Swedish fashion designers? 
CW: I love Sandra Backlund, the integrity and the high level of uncompromising personal expression of beauty in her designs is very inspiring and has a strengthening effect on me. I also like Matilda Wendelboe’s designs a lot and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair is also a favourite. 

DD: You organised in the past fashion shows in Sweden, what did you get out of this experience? 
CW: I learned the supreme importance of structure, feedback and positive mental attitude while working in a team. I got to know how many designers and their vision of what beauty is. We got together about 50-60 designers during the 2 years the project was in effect and it was very interesting to get to know so many different personalities and get to see as many expressions of fashion on and behind the runway. 

DD: Your “Kimonoat” was recently chosen by Swedish singer Frida Hyvönen for her recommended wardrobe on Branten, how do you feel about it? Is there a celebrity you'd like to see one day wearing one of your designs?
CW: I was absolutely thrilled. I’d like to make customized clothes for her, for Norwegian singer and songwriter Ane Brun, for Björk and the singer in the band Nostalgia 77.