The Russian menswear maverick reflects on his latest collection, inspired by 30s Soviet sportswear and 90s Muscovite club culture
Gosha Rubchinskiy's work is as close a reflection of post-Soviet Russian youth as you will get because the creative is immersed in the subculture himself, expressing the identity of a new generation through clothes and accompanying multimedia avenues, from film and photography to books and exhibitions such as TRANSFIGURATION, featured last week on Dazed Digital. Rubchinskiy introduces another clothing collection for SS13, and, as usual, an aesthetically simple range of menswear is more than it seems, designed with the passion of youth at the forefront of its creator's mind.
DD: What are your main cultural influences, Gosha?
Gosha Rubchinskiy: I like countryside landscapes and the Moscow architecture of Stalin's era. But the main thing for me is people; any place, wherever people are around.
DD: What people get you thinking?
Gosha Rubchinskiy: My friends. And the most inspiring thing is a ride in the Moscow's metro. I hope that any person who is young of mind – youthful at any age – can relate to and wear my clothing.
DD: What inspired this collection?
Gosha Rubchinskiy: Soviet 1930s sport uniforms and Moscow club culture from the 90s.
DD: You focus on very clean silhouettes …
Gosha Rubchinskiy: Yes we use simple cuts – sweatshirts with zips and some color, made from different kinds of cotton, mohair and light wool. There is also a special print cotton fabric for t-shirts featuring the screenshots. It's a uniform for clubbing, my feeling of now.
DD: You often communicate via film, what do you like about the medium?
Gosha Rubchinskiy: I am always trying to find new ways of communicating ideas. I find film more interesting than live performances or runways. Fashion comes to life with moving image, it can truthfully explain my mood.
DD: What are you working on next?
Gosha Rubchinskiy: I'm currently working on the AW13 collection. And we will present my Transfiguration project in Moscow soon.