Dazed's deputy fashion editor rounds up her pre-S/S13 highlights
Pre-collections are more important than ever in fashion today – they're transitional, they stay on the shop floor longer than catwalk items and are increasingly more characterful. Cruise (or Resort as it's known in the US) sits between A/W12 and S/S13 and is presented in more stealth manner, across official house lookbooks. An exception being Chanel, who showed a lavish modern-day Marie Antoinette in creepers at Versailles last May. Arriving in-store before Christmas, these clothes are monikered literally, designed as brighter, lighter pieces for holidaying in the sun across the new year. Dazed & Confused's deputy fashion editor Elizabeth Fraser-Bell picks her bold and best.
The thing with Cruise is that it is made for people to wear, not necessarily for editorial so you get to see how far these designers really go, how much they can truly push the limits of commercial design without it jumping over the very thin line, into the 'unwearable'
Dazed Digital: Tell us about the importance of pre-collections in fashion today. Cruise is essentially pre-Spring/Summer...
Elizabeth Fraser-Bell: I can't help but think about F. Scott Fitzgerald's 'French Riviera' and how eloquently it is brought to life when I look at these collections, it's exactly what I always imagined Tender is the Night's Rosemary and Nicole to wear. The thing with Cruise is that it is made for people to wear, not necessarily for editorial so you get to see how far these designers really go, how much they can truly push the limits of commercial design without it jumping over the very thin line, into the 'unwearable'. Editors are so used to seeing these explosions of ideas in A/W and S/S collections that its interesting to see the result of there being reduced pressure to create such insane show pieces – you discover a very real but all the same inspiring designer and clientele behind the designs.
DD: What was your favourite trend from Cruise 2013 Womenswear?
Elizabeth Fraser-Bell: Print! It's always print and colour that I love with Cruise. It's the only collection you can pretty much depend on most designers for that.
DD: Favourite looks?
Elizabeth Fraser-Bell: So many! Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Céline. My absolute favourite is a dress from Valentino.
DD: Favourite accessory?
Elizabeth Fraser-Bell: Chanel choker – gotta love a choker.
DD: Best shoe?
Elizabeth Fraser-Bell: Louis Vuitton.
DD: Best casting?
Elizabeth Fraser-Bell: Chanel had all the best girls. But I also really liked Marc Jacobs' casting with Magda and Melissa, they're like a really cute pair of dolls.
DD: If you could shoot anything from cruise, in any location and on any girl, what would be the scenario?
Elizabeth Fraser-Bell: The girls that live in the streets of downtown Havana in all my favourite looks, perhaps in the rum and cigar factories and definitely in Ernest Hemingway's favourite old rooftop bar during one of the tropical storms.