Walter Van Beirendonck's experimental collections have always centered around tribes, society and humanity. For Spring/Summer 13 his catwalk was a reaction to social networking, the mannerism of everyone sharing everything globally. Today, mystery is antiquated.
A tribute to remaining secret societies, sculptor Folkert de Jong collaborated on top hats and neckpieces, an artist Van Beirendonck has followed for some time. The clothes derived from a turn-of-the-20th century gentleman template, with the feeling of being exposed – sock garters, cotton boxer shorts, and bondage. Which might be what goes on behind closed doors but, realised in tech cable, evoked the constrictive nature of how the internet has us in a framework, shaping the way we are perceived. The level platform of opinion, cheap talk and (very plausibly) outrage sat underneath all those block text prints.
"I don't think there is only one male body type, one model which is fitting," Van Beirendonck explains. "I like to work with different body types, races, characters. This time half of the casting was white and half of the casting was black. One boy, Shaun Ross, is black with white skin, he perfectly fitted the collection and opened the show."
Dazed Digital sat down with the Antwerp-based designer for an exclusive video interview...
Film Pau López Peñalver