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Dino Alves. Backstage photography by Barbara Claus
Dino Alves. Backstage photography by Barbara Claustre. Catwalk images by ModaLisboa.

Lisbon Fashion Week S/S 09

During four days the best Portuguese designers made a stage out of an old fort in Cascais in order to present their collection for Spring/Summer 09.

After a very dark winter with black as king, the next season pronounced itself lighter. Most collections showed palettes of white and pastels, mixed with strong colours like fuchsia, yellow, green and red. More than shape, the fabrics were the main focus and most designers played up the contrast of patterns and on detailed garments.

‘Fun’ and ‘colourful’ were the key words for Dino Alves' show. The eternal “enfant terrible” of Portuguese fashion finally grew up with his new collection "Be Transparent".  Alves has always been known for his theatrical displays on the runway, presenting us with strong aesthetic concepts. Nevertheless, his Spring/Summer collection is less over the top and more coherent in terms of fabrics and shapes. This time the punch was given by bold colours (fluorescent yellow and pink), patterns and the quirky mix of fabrics: jersey tops mixed with organza skirts and stripped cotton shirts with plastic fabric on the sides were two of the most effective conjugations.  

Dino Alves took the heart as an inspiration for his collection and used it on prints and in glittery accessories beneath see through fabrics. In the men’s collection, some of our favourite pieces were the plastic top with printed veins and the red sequinned jacket with a 3D heart. In his own words, Alves considered this show to be about: “being transparent, being honest, being clear and being what you are”. 

As for Ricardo Preto's show, "Walk on by", you would have to imagine yourself somewhere in the Mediterranean, under an olive tree, chilling out with your friends in a hot summer afternoon. Everything was relaxed and sophisticated at the same time.

Inspired by Pan and Rumi Missabu, this collection seemed as if it had sprung from the earth: the colours, the fabrics and the comfortable silhouettes looked effortless to wear. Sheer and opaque fabrics were mixed like a breath of air and even the 60's inspired patterns didn't weigh it down. Our favourite piece? The dress with the Gaugin print on the front and the floral one on the back simply screams summer fun.

Ricardo Preto is evolving from season to season and this time he wasn't afraid of not taking himself too seriously. The result was irreverent and fresh, just like his muse Claudia Efe. The lead singer of the Micro Audio Waves closed the show with a hippie doll wedding dress.

Luis Buchinho showed why he is one of the best Portuguese designers. He presented well thought pieces with his signature intertwining of shapes and fabrics. The hybrid nature of reptiles was the inspiration and It was used in the construction of “double” pieces, like draped skirts that extended themselves into leggings; sportswear based garments were mixed with sheer fabrics and leather that mimicked reptile skin. It was probably also a fashion first for fake salmon snake skin.

It’s also worth mentioning White Tent, Ricardo Dourado and Lara Torres. Although young and still in experimental phases of their work, they show great promise for the future.

To round up Fashion Week we had Filipe Faísca.  An old veteran of fashion and stage, Faísca knew how to put on a show to close the event with a bang.