The Italian designer goes beyond bags to create slick ready-to-wear
Marco de Vincenzo is a valid part of Silvia Venturnini team at Fendi – and has been for the last decade. Yet besides being head of accessories at the Roman house, he's quickly made a name for himself in the world of women's ready-to-wear, a talent on the rise since winning Roma Alta Moda and Italian Vogue's 'Who is on Next?' award, back in 2009.
The years I lived in Rome strengthened my innate baroque sense, but I've always been attracted by minimalism, by synthesis, in literature as well as art
Having made his first presentation during Paris haute couture, de Vincenzo, who hails from the town of Messina, now presents his sophisticated garments as part of the Milan schedule. Dazed Digital caught up with the designer to find out more.
Dazed Digital: What has creating accessories at Fendi taught you?
Marco de Vincenzo: My background is linked to Fendi, because I was a little bit more than 20 years old when I arrived there. Discipline, strictness, humility, courage of ideas, sharing – these are only some of the skills I've acquired during the last ten last years. And there's no difference if it's a bag or clothing, the important thing is that I learnt to be self-confident in the tangled universe of a fashion designer. Which is a great job but also difficult, because it involves (and often sweeps away) your deepest and most personal facets.
DD: You debuted during Paris haute couture. What do you admire about couture and what inspired you to present in this manner?
Marco de Vincenzo: My debut was the result of a real passion, the passion for apparel, fuelled year on year during the same time as my role as a handbag designer. When the need to express this overtook the doorstep of frustration, haute couture appeared to me the only possible way to focus my vision – through careful attention and the absolute respect of my ideas, without going through the stress of turnover or production, simply being transported by the emotional side.
DD: Can you tell us about the collection and venue for A/W12? The ornate backdrop really contrasted with the clothes...
Marco de Vincenzo: I wanted to move between decorative and pure. The years I lived in Rome strengthened my innate baroque sense, but I've always been attracted by minimalism, by synthesis, in literature as well as art. The Autumn/Winter 12 collection is born from this synthesis, from the wish to show the hidden beauty of the city where I live, or a certain Italian spirit. The Palazzo Clerici was the perfect place to present this magnificence, it became a sign of the collection.
DD: Do you have ambition to create menswear too?
Marco de Vincenzo: It is not my priority, but I never preclude anything. Fifteen years ago I couldn’t imagine the leather world would've been my everyday work.
DD: What's your greatest recurring influence or passion?
Marco de Vincenzo: Music above all. I spend a lot of time searching for something new and I'm definitely 'omnivorous' regarding genre – there's something which can interpret or enhance any mood. A few years ago, I used to strum on the guitar: maybe I wasn't that pleasant to listen to but I felt the happiest man in the world.