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Helmut Lang Womenswear S/S12

Michael and Nicole Colovos' first catwalk show took inspiration from Richard Serra's art and boasted monochrome draping plus a strong injection of yellow

Having taken over the 90s minimalist giant in 2007, design duo Michael and Nicole Colovos spent the next few years honing and redefining the brand into their own, instead of a shadowing it on its previous and epynmnous designer. For Spring Summer 2012, the couple decided the time had come to take the brand 'on the road', and the very first Helmut Lang Mark II catwalk show was a fact. Using the Hudson River's Pier 57, Michael and Nicole showed a mostly monochrome collection focused around wrapped, draped and flowing materials.

Cropped jackets, harem trousers and layered tops all added to a strong and cohesive aesthetic. Except for black and white a light grey snuck into the palette, only to be completely drowned out in in the bright light from a gorgeously strong yellow and an abstract paint print. Many of the tailored jackets either came with oversized and flowing lapels or no lapels whatsoever. Hopefully this was just one of many Helmut Lang catwalk shows to come...

Dazed Digital: How come you chose right now to start doing a catwalk show?
Michael and Nicole Colovos:
In the beginning we just wanted to focus on getting our business straight. We always wanted to do it but we started from scratch and there was so much preparations to take care of. I'm happy we got our vision sorted out before we started doing shows. 

DD: Was there anything in particualar that made you start this season?
Michael and Nicole Colovos:
Everything just seemed to work out and we had a great flow and a great team.. it all came together.

DD: What was your starting point for S/S12?
Michael and Nicole Colovos:
We wanted to try and do a few different volumes and shapes. We often combine different textures, different elements. We were also playing with contrasts, colours and textures playing off each other. 

DD: Did you look toward anything in particular for inspiration?
Michael and Nicole Colovos:
The painter Richard Serra, how he used contrasts and texture...

DD: Any pieces that you think sums up the collection particualry well?
Michael and Nicole Colovos:
Maybe the ones towards the end, the ones that that have a mishmash of textures on the front. We used a combination of leather, cord, sequins, chunky embroideries.