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Stockholm Fashion Week S/S12: Ubi Sunt

Aidin Sanati and Moa Wikman's poetically monochrome collection boasted frayed silk fabrics in matt and shiny shades and hats with beekeeping nets

The up-and-coming design duo took on Sweden's premier fashion week with their sophomore collection, putting roughly 15 looks on pedestals at Hallwylska Museum's backyard. In monochrome colours - plus a few shades of blue - Aidin Sanati and Moa Wikman showed menswear in fragile silk fabrics, often layered and draped. Frayed hems, pleated trousers and lapel-less jackets added to the poetic and dreamy aesthetic.

All-white looks - mixing matt with shiny shades - brought on a romantic atmosphere, while hats with bee-keeping nets helped the styling along. A few flowing silk hoodies towards the end also nursed the conceptual take on Ubi Sunt's Spring Summer season. Even though the colour palette was safe and Swedish, Sanati and Wikman managed to refresh the Scando looks on offer during the first day of Stockholm Fashion Week, and 'pushing things forward' is surely the best mark a second season collection can get!?

Dazed Digital: This is your second collection, what's your starting point for each season?
Moa Wikman:
We work with feelings and soft shapes, not such much details. That's our starting point. We want the cuts to be seen as one piece, rather than showing off individual seams and so on. It's all about the silhouettes of the clothes...

DD: Anyone in particular that has inspired these cuts and shapes?
Moa Wikman:
We looked towards the sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi, for example. 

DD: Can you tell me a bit about the colour palette ?
Moa Wikman:
We don't like using too much colour, mostly to better show our shapes and cuts, instead of focusing on the colour.  

DD: What about the net hats...
Moa Wikman:
We were inspired, at least for the styling, by beekeeper hats. They're beautiful but still protective. And they work with our idea of using fabrics with structure. 

DD: Is there a piece in the  collection that you think sums it up?
Moa Wikman:
I like the last all-white outfit. I love the hard structure of the pieces, it's almost like a waist coat that has been layered with different shiny and matt fabrics to create this big shape.