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Copenhagen Fashion Week S/S12: Henrik Vibskov

The Danish designer presents a visually stimulating line of graphic prints against a backdrop of huge immersive installations

Henrik Vibskov always manages to impress his audience by giant installations, graphic prints, imaginative accessories and otherworldly sounds. This time around he was true to his style and presented a collection on a rotating catwalk with models opening and closing doors almost in a working class factory environment which provoked a feeling of paranoia or you might just say Panopticon.

Dazed Digital: Where does your inspiration come from for this collection.

Henrik Vibskov: We always look in different directions. Music, art, life, whatever. If we're talking about this season, S/S12, we looked at workwear, 19th century artisans, like Steve McQueen. I like the idea of putting many ideas into a collection.  It gives a lot of freedom to the clothes and to the way we work.  We're referring to this concept, panopticon, a lot too.  It forms the basis for the show.  The word comes from Greek origin but was used by a philosopher in the late 17th century.  It's the idea of all-seeing.  I worked with 4 projects at the same time, I tried to put panopticon into everything, a dutch exhibition with a panopticon room - 60 students at Central Saint Martins worked under a brief called the panopticon - my own collection is called panopticon - I bike pass a building every day called the panopticon etc. So I created my own panopticon noia.
DD: How have you grown since your last collection.
Henrik Vibskov: No, I stopped growing when I was 15.  I'm 197 cm. So I haven't grown since, hehe.
But Things are different from last season. I have a baby, a little girl. Maybe that has changed things in the way I design. But you might have to ask my colleagues if it's made a difference. I don't think I see a change maybe as much as they can.  
DD: Does CFW give you a good platform for International sales.
Henrik Vibskov: Yeah, of course. It's my home. It's where (the label) it began. I've been really lucky to have a lot of support locally since the start so I guess that's been an easy platform for going somewhere bigger. But we started out in Paris a few years before, and have showrooms in New York, Milan and Japan, so these cities are just as much a platform for us as Copenhagen.
DD: Tell me about the location and set up of the show. (how do they tell the story of your collection).
Henrik Vibskov: Totally top secret.  Kidding. It took us a while to find the right space and there were a few places we were looking at for the show in Copenhagen. it's a nice little cosy space in the open air garden  that should give a good feeling. It's different to how we showed in Paris. We were at lycée turgot, which we've used before. But Paris is a totally different atmosphere to Copenhagen. There's always a big crowd here in Copenhagen though. A lot of friends and family.
DD: What impact would you like to give.
Henrik Vibskov: I don't know. But I've just had a little girl and I'd like to hope that I'm an impact on her life. For the better.