The Central Saint Martins graduate plays with traditional purity through this collection of bold minimal and structural silhouettes
Branded the new name to watch, designer Tze Goh is becoming recognized for his bold minimal and structural silhouettes. Raised in Singapore, Goh went on to learn his trade in the fashion capitals of the world. After studying at the Parson’s School of Design in New York and Paris, he then completed his MA at Central Saint Martins. February 2010, saw him exhibit his first collection in London. With his third collection unveiled in London and Paris this season, he was one of four designers to be labelled by Vauxhall Fashion Scout as “One To Watch.”
Rooted to his upbringing, the classic geometry of Asian shapes, with A-line silhouettes and wide brimmed sleeves, prove to be a strong influence on the collection. Goh however, reworks to have a current relevance. The traditional purity is translated through his contemporary minimal shapes and the materials used. Out are the printed, draping silks of the old and in with the new-age dramatic construction. Malleable 3D foams allow his designs to be controlled and precise with deliberately constructed folds and neat lines, to give a dramatic yet disciplined impact.
Dazed Digital: Do you have a design ethos?
Tze Goh: My design ethos is one of minimalism. Smooth lines, folded seams and intricate pleating create a clean palette that allows the garments to speak for themselves.
DD: What are your inspirations behind the AW11-12 collection?
Tze Goh: I am inspired by many things, both inside and outside of fashion. For the AW11/12 collection, major inspirations included the geometry of Japanese clothing design, the topography of mountains, and the clean lines of automobile interiors, especially German made automobiles.
DD: Tell us a little about your materials. How do you source them?
Tze Goh: Materials in the AW11 collection include wool and cashmere, bonded with 3D jersey to create a 3-dimensional, sculptural design. I find most of my materials either in the UK or Italy.
DD:Your designs are bold, and shapes are architectural, are these design traits of yours?
Tze Goh: Yes, my designs are inspired by modern architecture, especially the work of Zaha Hadid. When designing, I like to start with a simple shape, such as a t-shirt, and stretch and mould the fabric into something new, modern, creating a serenely sensual and statuesque design.
DD: Who is the ideal Tze Goh woman?
Tze Goh: The ideal Tze Goh woman is not trend conscious, but sophisticated, with a timeless sense of style.
DD: You’ve lived in the fashion capitals, why have you decided to settle in London? Or do you see yourself moving?
Tze Goh: After showing my graduate collection at the Central St. Martins MA graduate show, I decided to set up my label in London because it is a city that supports new and emerging talent.
DD: What’s the future for your label?
Tze Goh: In the future I plan to continually develop the label, creating collections that further explore the use of fabrics, both singularly and in combination. Currently, I am designing the SS12 collection that promises new shapes and designs.
Text by Felicity Carter