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Photography Christina Fragkou

Mowalola’s SS23 make-up proves the graphic smokey eye is still hot

Smokey spring has evolved into smokey summer

Bold, graphic black eye make-up is officially still the hottest look right now. First made popular earlier this year thanks to muse and #1 hustler Julia Fox, the intense beauty look was seen at Milan Fashion Week when Pat McGrath sent Versace models down the runway with bleached brows and dramatic smokey eyes. “It’s going to be a smokey spring,” McGrath said at the time.  

Well, according to Mowalola, it’s a smokey summer too. The designer recently made her return to fashion week after three years with a fetish-themed collection, Burglarwear. Micromini dresses festooned with restraining straps and lace-up details had models bound by the wrists or with their arms forced above their head in submission. Leather cross harness, sleeves without holes and crucifix motifs, emphasised the theme. 

When it came to the beauty, make-up artist Inge Grognard created a variety of looks including thick graphic liner in black and blues, natural dewy complexions, and one model who had a red cross painted across her face. Hairstylist Virginie Moreira, meanwhile, kept hair sleek and slicked back or tied up into a high ponytail that mirrored the bound limbs of the models.

See the looks in the gallery above and read the full fashion report here.