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Vaquera Dazed 100
Patric wears embroidered dress Gucci, arm cuffs National Theatre Costume Hire, trousers Vaquera, shoes Jessie Western, gloves Cornelia James, fan Costume Studio, socks CalzedoniaPhotography Ethan James Green, styling Emma Wyman

After wearing private school uniforms for 14 years, stylist-turned-designer Patric DiCaprio of Vaquera knows the amount of controversy a single outfit can cause. “We’d have an out-of-uniform day once every two months and I would spend all my time planning what I could wear that would freak people out the most,” he remembers. “I realised then the power that unique clothing could have over people.”

Since graduating with a degree in photography, moving to New York and teaching himself to sew via YouTube cosplay tutorials, the southern boy from Alabama found himself working within a community of some of New York’s leading tastemakers, including the founders of DIS Magazine and stylist Avena Gallagher. “I learned more working with them than I did in my entire college career. They were interested in doing the seemingly impossible – like starting a clothing brand when you’re broke and can’t sew – and that is interesting work.” 

For SS16, DiCaprio showed at the Church of the Ascension in Greenwich Village. Attendees watched from dark wooden pews, observing clothes that mixed ren-fair romanticism, coquettish drama and a costume club’s love of puffy sleeves, voluminous bloomers and ruffled shirts. In a finale suited to the surroundings, the last look saw DiCaprio’s boyfriend Tyler Sayles walk the aisle in a bridal gown.

Now, Vaquera has two new names on board – David Moses, formerly of Moses Gauntlett Cheng, and visual artist Bryn Taubensee. February will see the trio debut their first work together at New York Fashion Week – so stay tuned.

Text Veronica So