Sinéad O’Dwyer’s AW25 collection marked her last show as part of the BFC’s NEWGEN scheme, and her first as an LVMH Prize semi-finalist. Titled Character Studies, the show paid tribute to the many characters of O’Dwyer’s previous collections, from secretaries and submissives to gymnasts and dancers – just don’t call it a greatest hits. “This is not a nostalgic ‘top hits’ replay,” read the show notes, decisively, but an “assured advancement of the brand’s vocabulary.” The O’Dwyer DNA could be seen throughout, though, especially in the criss-cross cutout details which reference the fastenings of Irish dance shoes.
Photography Morgane Maurice