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There is a portrait in the Uffizi, painted by Rosso Fiorentino in 1521, of a red-haired cherub slumped over a lute. Its wings are as small and bird-like as those that accessorised Loewe’s AW23 collection, which were worn by bare-legged, boyish models in long-sleeved t-shirts. Guileless and quite feeble, these aren’t the splayed warrior wings of an arch-angel, but of someone who just wants to be bundled into a blanket and stuffed with food. Perhaps Jonathan Anderson – with all the chest-clutched pillows of his most recent JW Anderson collection – can empathise with that kind of thing…

Photography Cris Fragkou

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