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… Even if he did go to more sinister extremes with all the milky white contact lenses and highwayman trench coats. This Renaissance-meets-Sci-Fi amalgam was triggered by the work of American artist Julien Nguyen – who previously collaborated with Ottolinger on its AW20 collection – and pushes gilded artworks into freakish forms. With Timothy Chalamet, Troye Sivan, Taylor Russell, and the cast of White Lotus in attendance, the designer put forward all kinds of bizarre experimentations with form and fabrication: there were creased jackets moulded entirely out of copper, parchment t-shirts so stiff you could practically crack them over a knee, and outsized, moulded overcoats that looked as though they were wearing the model (not the other way round).

Photography Cris Fragkou