Young designers usually present in Paris or Milan as a way to legitimise their brand, but the show actually took place in a completely speculative world that Jeffrey had called “Ajuka” – a floating city kept in flight by thousands of workers in an underground engine room. There, bedraggled labourers (in protective gear and found jewellery) jar with “posers” (in sleek tailoring, outsized ruffles, and claw-footed brogues) and “snakes” (AKA gossip-mongers in tailored tweed and scraps of old newspaper). Elsewhere, the designer doubled-down on his punkish staples: anamorphic beanies, bolshy kilts, colour-blocked tailoring, buckled trousers, and safety pin fastenings.
Photography Jamie-Maree Shipton
