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Showcased in the Victoria & Albert museum’s Fashioning Masculinities exhibition last year, those frilly garments marked a turning point in menswear when it was still dominated by sensible Saville Row suiting. But ten years on, a high-waisted, cauliflower-hemmed short isn’t quite as transgressive as it once was. Still, it’s a point worth returning to. How has society shifted since then? “How do we package people? Do we need to package people or not?,” as Anderson said backstage. Other pieces interrogated how identity is etched onto clothing: like the trompe l'oeil torsos that were printed onto terry cloth vests or SIM cards – unique, personalised tech – that were worn as body jewellery.

Photography Jamie-Maree Shipton

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