This season, Jonathan Anderson swapped out weird little pigeon bags for weird little frog bags, he sent models down the runway with big bolts of fabric and painted their limbs with cartoonish tomato vines. And yet, it was an unusually spare collection from fashion’s foremost meme merchant, who has spent the last few seasons creating bizarre fashion objects from toy cars and BMX handles. It must have been a little jarring to see those pieces become internet gags and perhaps that’s why the designer felt the need to press reset on his AW23 collection: revisiting the ruffled shorts, skirts, and dresses of AW13 as a means to recenter and regroup.
Photography Jamie-Maree Shipton