There’s a common belief that fashion trends repeat themselves every 20 years, and the first half of the 2020s has only solidified that theory. So far, nostalgic 00s style has been the defining aesthetic of the decade – we’ve seen the resurrection of low-waisted jeans, ultra-skinny eyebrows and flip phones, while catwalk shows of the past five years have been dominated by Y2K silhouettes. 

But beyond the bubblegum-hued, Paris Hilton-esque stereotypes of noughties fashion that dominate today’s trends, streetwear and sportswear brands are also paying a visit to their archives. For Salomon, 2025 marks the 20th anniversary of its ACS Pro adventure shoe – the beloved style that started as a technical trail shoe and evolved into a cult footwear staple. 

To mark the occasion, Salomon has announced a very special anniversary pair of ACS PROs, honouring its DNA with the original sample colour from 2005, while moving it into the future with a gleaming gold colourway. The ACS PROs 20 year anniversary Archive Gold pair are enough to get any collector’s pulse racing, coming complete with accompanying campaign (see gallery above), special packaging and accessories. 

It’s a major milestone for the legendary footwear brand, but how exactly did a function-first trail shoe become a modern fashion giant? Below, we chart the history of Salomon’s ACS PRO. 

A NEW ERA FOR ADVENTURE

In 1989, the Raid Gauloises – known as the first modern expedition adventure race – was held in New Zealand. A multidisciplinary team sport, the Raid took place over several days and involved trekking, mountain biking and canoeing. The event was symbolic of the 90s adventure mindset, ushering in a new dawn for exercise. 

The concept of “athletic outdoor” was born, and with it, a new aesthetic. Chunky hiking boots and heavy layers weren’t going to cut it anymore, and were replaced by lightweight alternatives. Adventurers needed shoes that could adapt to multiple terrains, from rocky trails and mountain paths to fields and even bike pedals. “[At first] the shoes needed to be robust and grippy, and all of a sudden, they had to be lightweight and runnable,” explains Salomon’s Jean-Noël Thevenoud, head of softgoods prototyping. “Salomon was quick to become the staple brand for these adventure shoes for any terrain, any conditions, and over a long period of time. ”

The brand’s first shoes designed for adventure racing came out in 2001, the XA Raid Race, followed by the XA PRO a year later. Soon after, the Salomon team realised the brand needed a shoe that was less niche and catered to an audience beyond sponsored athletes. Enter: the GCS. 

BEFORE THERE WAS THE ACS, THERE WAS THE GCS

In 2005, the Ground Control System shoe – also known as the GCS – was born. A groundbreaking development for lightweight, runnable footwear, the style’s advanced cushioning, solid grip and breathability made it a popular choice, though it was the shoe’s design that really caught people’s attention. 

Created by footwear designer Christian Tresser, the design of the running shoe was part inspired by motorcycles, part by the shape of a ribcage. “I always try to look at the end goal of a design to fully understand the story. I don’t follow trends or other artists or designers,” explains Tresser. “The metal eyelets on the GCS were inspired by the shape of a metal gas tank on a motorcycle. My father and brother were motorcycle racers and my dad owned an auto body shop where I worked, especially while I was in art school. For the ‘cage’ wrapping the mid-foot, I wanted it to look like a ribcage, which implied breathability.”

Striking the perfect balance between unique design and functionality, the GCS PRO became one of the most respected and coveted shoes of the 00s – it even won the 2005 Backpacker Editor’s Choice award. 

FROM GROUND CONTROL SYSTEM (GCS) TO AGILE CHASSIS SYSTEM (ACS)

17 years after the launch of the GCS PRO, in 2022, the shoe got a modern upgrade, with the Ground Control System (GCS) becoming the Agile Chassis System (ACS). “We were looking for a more aggressive silhouette, looking outside of traditional Salomon trail-running silhouettes. The GCS had specific features like mesh fabric and stitching, a different kind of SensiFit with the molded TPU cage. It also had that retro vibe that we really liked!” explain the Salomon Sportstyle team. 

The ACS PRO came in two vibrant colourways, inspired by Japanese motorbikes (similarly to Tresser’s original moto-inspired design) as part of the the critically acclaimed L’Art de L’Automobile collaboration. But the collabs didn’t stop there. In 2023, high fashion came calling when Maison Margiela’s MM6 joined forces with the ACS PRO for a very special design, available in three colourways: black, white and blue. Around the same time, the brand also worked with Jah Jah Paris – the beloved vegan restaurant and community collective — to create an exclusive brown pair of ACS PROs, inspired by the myths and traditions of West Africa. 

THE ACS PRO TURNS 20 

The new ACS PRO 20 year anniversary edition is a culmination of two decades’ worth of history and modern, futuristic design. What once existed as a trail shoe, created for adventure races and extreme, multi-terrain expeditions, is now worn in every major city around the world – not as an accessory for sports, but as an IYKYK fashion staple. While it keeps functionality at its core, the ACS PRO (and its recognisable ribcage-like design) has become an essential addition to every sneakerhead’s collection.