This SS21, fashion has hopscotched pretty much every pandemic-induced emotional wave – Fendi got cosy in one of the few IRL shows of the season, and Burberry enveloped us in fantasy with a pastoral forest London show, while Raf Simons’ debut for Prada gave us both the familiar and playful, with some serious logomania. It’s with Lucie and Luke Meier’s vision of Jil Sander though, that the message that fashion can bring to this moment in time feels profound: the future might feel uncertain, but there can be positivity and confidence in the quality and beauty of what we choose to express ourselves and put on our bodies. Consistency in a chaotic world is key, and refined, feminine power in the face of apocalypse is more than welcome.
The designers’ latest collection showcases what the Meiers do best, which is connecting together opposites with fluidity and style – think diaphanous, transparent jackets and carefully embroidered shirts in soft cottons and silks, studded with robust metal zips and buttons. Bodily silhouettes are defined and contrasted by voluminous skirts and rippling plisse dresses, with tight knee-high boots and playfully squishy, poppy coloured bags. The most simple cotton shirt dresses are finished off with rich collars. Suits are given more masculine, strong cuts, while shoulders and belts are flecked with sustainably sourced feathers for some glimpses at drama.
As always, Jil Sander is in the detail, whether it’s delicate crochet or strong smocking, with one black dress showcasing their restrained and exquisite handwork with its geometric woven leather pattern. The colour palette is rich and natural, from butter yellow to powder blue, with sudden accents of gold and red.
Forgoing a live show, the designers have created a meditative film showing the SS21 collection off schedule with filmmaker Stephen Kidd, sensually soundtracked by frequent collaborator, avant-pop artist Kelsey Lu. On the runway, the collections values of quality, femininity, and nuance feel alive – standouts include a waterfall-like yellow silk dress paired with stomping black sandals, bridging the masculine and feminine, against a stark industrial backdrop. This season, the overarching message is one of composed ease and quiet, restorative confidence; frankly, a state of conscious we could all do with channeling right about now.