Whether it’s the avant-garde aesthetics, the radicals rising out of it, or the energy of a rebellious generation fighting back against all that stood in its way, there’s something about London in the late 70s that continues to capture fashion’s imagination season after season. Though it’s now been almost 50 years since the likes of the Sex Pistols and The Clash rampaged through the capital, the spirit of punk can still be felt on runways around the world.
The latest to draw inspiration from the iconic movement is Italian label Corelate, whose SS20 collection My Grandpa was a Punk taps into the era’s energy and style.
Though the brand is more known for its relaxed, streetwear-influenced silhouettes than it is for safety-pinned leather jackets or tartan bondage trousers, designer Maurizio Tedeschi explains punk’s allure lies in its dualities: “Above all, it’s about a chaotic balance, the idea of considering noise as a form of music,” he says. “As Malcolm McLaren once said ‘I always feel more comfortable in chaotic surroundings’.”
On the line-up are a series of super-skinny denim jeans, motorcycle jackets crafted from cotton canvas, distressed t-shirts, and baggy shirts, with the collection springing from the idea of raiding a parent or grandparent’s wardrobe and adding a punk twist to whatever was found. With many styles featuring hand-customised elements, there’s a unique DIY feel running through the offering.
There’s one clear stand-out from the collection, though – a huge, oversized coat emblazoned with ‘My Grandpa was a Punk’, which recalls the Sex Pistols’ original comouflage jackets. “I love the Sex Pistols for the aesthetic ideas,” Tedeschi. “In terms of style, though, I’d have to say that I was thinking about Bow Wow Wow, because they carry that streetwear soul, and Adam and The Ants, who are seen as the last pillars of that period. A big influence on my work, and much more.”
Corelate will be present at Marcona3 showroom in Milan and Paris later this month.